how to build an underground house

How to Build an Underground House.

Have you ever wanted to have a house completely hidden from the view of other people? Do you like caves or the deep smell of moist earth? Do you fear the imminent apocalypse? Well, you might want to build an underground house. It will take some time and effort, but if you’re wiling to commit to the project you could have your own underground shelter sooner rather than later.



Method 1 Preparing to Build Your Underground House.

1. Check your zoning laws. You can call your state to check the zoning laws of your property to see if you are allowed to put a new building on your property. You don’t want the state to ruin the fun by fining you for your newly created underground house. Even if you’re underground you're not safe from the law.

2. Get permission from the state to dig. More official business. You need to pre-mark the area on your property that you want to excavate with stakes and white paint. Then you call your state’s Dig Safe branch and describe the area that you plan to dig in. Hopefully they will grant you permission. You definitely have to do this to ensure that you’re not going to dig into a sewage system or something like that.

3. Hire a professional excavator or buy professional equipment. Hiring a professional to do it for you wouldn’t be the worst idea. Depending on the size of your house you probably are going to need to use heavy machinery, and if you have no experience with that hiring a professional is probably the way to go. Search for professional excavators on the internet or contact a local construction company. They should be able to quote you a cost and at the very least offer you some helpful tips. You may be able to negotiate a price to use their equipment if you can prove that you are trained to use it.

4. Find someone willing to help you. This isn’t a solo job even if you really want it to be. When you’re excavating or dealing with heavy materials you need someone to make sure that you are safe. You are going to be dealing with a lot of heavy materials and working in the earth and something could happen at any time. Make sure you have a partner.

5. Find a suitable location. Look for a spot that is outside of your area’s 100-year flood plain and isn't near any steep slopes that might trigger a landslide. A large open space is probably best suited for an underground house, because tree roots can also cause issues during excavation. The odds are that you will be trying to build this house on your own property, so you probably don't have to worry too much but just be aware.

Generally you want to stay away from any large objects like trees, boulders, or multi-story buildings.

You also shouldn't place your house near any concentrations of fuel or any hazardous materials.



Method 2 Designing Your Underground House.

1. Develop detailed structural plans. Work with an architect to design a scaled design and floor plan for your underground house. This plan should be complete with dimensions, details on the potential materials that will be used,

2. Design your house. As you design your house you should consider air and water filtration systems, potential light sources, and food storage space. [3] Draw a model of your house to scale using the structural plans that you already created. Now draw in where all the installed appliances will go first, then the furniture, then anything else you would like to include in your plan. Be aware of the following constraints as well.

If you are going to be underground for very long periods of time you will need to have your water set up to some sort of renewing water source and you will also need a ton of space to keep the food you have fresh. This means many refrigerators and a reliable power generator.

A reliable air circulation and filtration system is also crucial to avoid getting carbon dioxide poisoning or other airborne illnesses.

3. Include an entrance and exit in your design. This can be as simple as a ladder with a hatch on the top or even a tunnel leading up and to the outside. The easiest option is buying a staircase. You can buy a staircase online and have it delivered to your house, so it doesn’t even need to be part of the construction if you don’t want.

If you decide to use a ladder you may need to secure the ladder to the wall with metal supports. Buy U-shaped metal supports at a home improvement store and secure these into your wall over the steps of your ladder. This will keep it stable while you are climbing up and down. You can also buy airtight hatches to secure the top of your entrance. Once again it is important to make sure that your hatch is significantly wider and longer than the hole you wish to cover.



Method 3 Planning the Excavation.

1. Develop a strategy to dig your hole. Remember to dig based on the excavation area that you received permission to dig in. If you dig outside of that you risk digging into something like a sewer line or a fiber optic cable. Also know what kind of soil you'll be excavating. If you're digging into bedrock you won't get very far.

You also should check your soil records at the town office before you start digging to see what you are going to be digging into and what kind of equipment you will need. Ask the clerk at the town office about your property and they will have the records available for you to see most of the time. If they don't, you might have to have someone come and survey your land.

2. Investigate the conditions of your soil. It’s incredibly important to know what kind of soil you are working with, and this will also inform your digging strategy. Have a professional come and survey your soil.

3. Consider a cut and cover strategy. Cut and cover works if you are digging in relatively soft soil. The idea is that you dig out an area, build a concrete structure inside of it, and then cover the hole thing up with dirt again. Obviously you want to keep your hatch or staircase exposed so that you can enter into your structure. However, if your soil will allow for it this is a good way to build a large framework for your home.

4. Save the excess soil. This is especially important if you plan to create a berm house. A berm house is a house that is covered by soil but still has windows and doorways to the outside. Your house will sit in a deep foundation and once you have completed the construction of the building you can push the dirt up the sides and on top of the house to create the berm look. This will require a reinforced roof.



Method 4 Constructing Your Underground House.

1. Build a perimeter wood frame. You will pour concrete into this frame in order to create a footing. The footings will form the basis for your foundation. The boards should be built according to the specifications of your foundation in your designed plan.

2. Install footings to provide the base for your foundation. Remember to seal the footings to protect them from moisture. Use a high quality sealer. You can pour concrete either directly into trenches or into wood forms.

3. Create stem walls. Start with the corners of the foundation and then build a plum and level wall connecting the two corners. Having something to connect the wall to on either side makes the process easier. It’s much easier to spot if the wall is out of alignment. Remove the flaws using hand trowels.

4. Consider using reinforced concrete on the walls. You will want to use it on the ceiling too if you plan to cover your roof heavily with dirt and soil. Living underground will keep the temperatures relatively moderate, but the earth also puts a huge amount of pressure on the walls and ceiling of your house.  It’s also essential to hire a structural engineer to design earthquake resistant elements if you live in an earthquake prone area.

5. Decide what kind of ceiling you want. You can choose a material as simple as wood boards or something more complex, but sturdier, like brick or concrete. If you choose brick or concrete ensure that you building has strong structural supports.

6. Plan to have scaffolding or brick pillars secure your ceiling. You will have to lay the brick yourself by buying brick and mortar and building a thick pillar up to the ceiling. A six brick base should provide a decent support. If your room is very large you will want to build a few supports. Scaffolding is something that you can buy at a home improvement store, but is more likely to bend and break. Take this step very seriously or you risk potential cave-ins.

7. Use wood beams to outline the rooms in your house. Set up these rooms in accordance with your design plans. Make sure that you leave space in the walls for any potential wiring that you’ll need to do.

8. Consider insulation. Even though you’re living underground you may need insulation. This will keep your heating and cooling costs down and make your energy use much more efficient. Wait until after you have completed the wiring before you install the insulation.



Method 5 Buying a Premade Underground House.

1. Research the kind of underground shelter you would want. Believe it or not there are plenty of companies that specialize in underground shelters. You'll be able to find a number of companies on the internet that can sell you pre-made houses in a variety of different styles. You can go pretty crazy here if you’re willing to spend a lot of money.  Try to consider your price range and the amount of people that you plan to have living with you in this shelter.

2. Purchase your underground house. In most of these situations you have to buy the shelter outright, because generally the idea is that you’ll be holed up in the shelter once you have it. However, some of these companies offer financing.

3. Obtain approval to dig on your property. You first need to pre -mark your excavation area with white paint or stakes. Then call your state excavation number to describe the exact area where you plane to excavate. You will not be allowed to dig outside of this area. In Massachusetts this number is 8-1-1, but it varies state by state. This is important to ensure that you don't dig into a buried sewage system or fiber optic cable.

4. Have your underground house delivered and installed. This is included in the price. Make sure there is a path for their truck to deliver your new house. You can’t have your dig site all the way out in the middle of the woods if there is no road to get there.The installation may take several days, so be aware of that.



Question : How much money do I need to build an underground house?

Answer : It depends on how big the house is and what materials you use, but probably $10K or more.

Question : Is it possible to use this as a super secret lab? Do I need to buy all the super scientific stuff myself?

Answer : You could do that, or anything else your imagination suggests. And, yes, you would probably have to buy everything.

Question : How do you get underground? And put big objects down there without digging up the house?

Answer : Usually, underground houses are built by digging out space on the side of a hill. The house is constructed then the dirt is moved back on top of the structure. One side of the house is usually left exposed.

Question : What would happen if I built an underground house using wood instead of concrete and bricks in a rocky soil? Will it fall down on me?

Answer : While the type of soil would affect the distribution and absorption, all types will bring rain or surface water down to the building materials. Wood, when exposed to water, weakens and rots; it is an essential part of its natural breakdown process. So, yes, it would come apart and quickly, likely falling down on itself in the process.

Question : Instead of either ladder or stairway how about an elevator?

Answer : While elevators can go into basements, they have large foundational and protection requirements. They take a lot of material, space and need plenty of protection around them, such as a building. They are too big for most, and require so much building around them - for the above-ground entry - that it defies what most people picture for an underground house. Besides, they're expensive to build, run and maintain, too.

Question : Should I have a normal house on top?

Answer : There are pros and cons: a normal house distracts from an underground one, and gives you the advantages of both types. However, an above-ground house is not hidden, and may not fit into your plans (such as defense or a location not being found). It is about your preferences.



Tips.

When constructing any trench or hole angle the walls back slightly, so the top is larger than the floor. this lets gravity help you hold back the pressure of the dirt walls.

A phone in case of emergency may be useful.

Before adding the roof always brace the sides of the trench and hole to prevent cave ins.

Ventilation holes are a very good thing to build maybe behind a plant so your underground house will stay secret.

When you brace the walls, drive the stick or pole into the floor, pushing against the wall so that in order for you to push your finger behind the board, you would hurt yourself, or at least get really dirty fingernails.

Brace all walls and never dig deep without a friend near you and above ground.

Have your house inspected by a professional so that you know it won’t collapse.

Plan ahead. You don’t want to work on this during the winter or inclement weather.

Commit time to the project. If you really want an underground house it’s going to be a long process.

Do not try to build an underground home if you live below sea level. You probably will hit water.

Februari 20, 2020

how to make a tye dyed towel

How to Make a Tye‐Dyed Towel,

Tye-dye towels are fun and unique accessories to bring to the beach or use in your day to day life. You'll need some white towels, as well as a tye-dye kit from a craft store. It's best to wear old clothes and work outdoors due to the mess. With a little time and care, you can make a fun tye-dye towel of your own.

Part 1 Tying Your Towel.

1. Wash your towel in cold water. Use a white towel. You can run the towel through a washing machine if it has not been washed in a while. However, simply run clean towels under cool water in the sink.

It's not necessary to use detergent when washing your towel for dyeing.

2. Wring out your towel until it's damp. After washing the towel, do not place it in a dryer. Instead, use your hands to wring out excess water. The towel should be damp during the dyeing process.

3. Tie your towel up using rubber bands. If you're using a dye kit, it probably came with small rubber bands for tying the towel. However, if you don't have a kit, you can use regular rubber bands. Wrap the rubber bands around the towel so it's tied into many knots.

Have fun and be creative. How much you tie the towel is up to you. More knots and twists will add more complexity to your tie-dye color scheme.

Part 2 Adding Your Colors.

1. Put on gloves and old clothes. Wear plastic gloves when working with dye. Not only can dye get messy, it can also cause a bad reaction if you get it directly on your skin. You should also wear old clothes when dyeing your towels.

2. Mix your dye according to package instructions. Your dye should come with instructions for mixing, which vary greatly depending on the type of kit you're using. Most dye is diluted with water in a small tub or container. With some kits, the dye may be pre-mixed and you'll just need to transfer it to bottles.

3. Transfer your dye to spray bottles. If your kit doesn't come with spray bottles, you can buy them at most department or craft stores. Transfer your dye to the bottles. Put each different color of dye in a separate bottle.

4. Saturate your towel with a variety of dyes. Place your towel in a bucket or on a tarp on the ground. Squirt the dye onto the towel, using many different colors to create a fun, unique design. Keep spraying the towel until it's completely saturated with dye.

5. Let the dye sit overnight. Place the towel somewhere safe where it will not be disturbed, such as a cupboard in your home. Let it sit overnight with the rubber bands in place. This allows the dye to set.

Wrap the towel in plastic wrap before storing it. This prevents the colors from making a mess.

Part 3 Washing and Drying Your Towel.

1. Rinse the towel in cold water. Hand wash your towel in the sink, using cold water. Keep running the towel under cold water, squeezing it on occasion, until dye stops running off the towel. It is not necessary to use detergent.

2. Wash your towel in a washing machine. After rinsing off the towel, place it in the washing machine. Run it through the shortest wash cycle offered, using cold water.

3. Lay your towel out to dry. Lay down a tarp or something similar on a floor in your home where the towel will not be disturbed. Lay the towel flat on the tarp and leave it there until it dries. Drying times will vary, but most towels should be dry within 24 hours.

Desember 03, 2019

how to create a room divider

How to Create a Room Divider. 

A room divider can be a perfect solution to not having privacy in a room or where there is a need to make the room more useful space-wise. While there are plenty available to buy, they may not come with the style or design that works for your décor, or they may just be too pricey. Fortunately, with a little willingness to do some basic woodwork and crafting, you can create your own at home for a lot less than buying a brand new one.

Method 1 Paper Room Divider.

1. Prepare the work-space first. Lay down clean sheets or similar to protect the work surface and to provide a nice area to work on.

Making the frames

1. Form three frames that create the divider. To do this, start with the first frame.

2. Saw the corners of the wood pieces at a 45 degree angle. This is necessary to allow the wood pieces to fit together snugly.

3. Lay the first frame out on the floor, on your work-space. Place a short piece (one of the pieces measuring 4 x 4 x 75cm (1 /12" x 1 1/2" x 29 1/2")) on the work surface. Then place a long piece on each side of this. Finish by placing the other short piece at the base. This forms a large rectangle, namely the frame.

4. Join the four pieces of wood together. Using the glue suitable for wood, glue the angled corners together, to attach each piece of wood permanently to form the frame. Push the join together for a bit using your hands or a clamp, to help ensure a tight affixing and to ensure that the glue works as it should. Allow to fully dry.

5. Strengthen the joint areas. Where the angled parts have been glued together, use the L-shaped plates. Screw these onto the reverse side of the corner joins. Don't worry, these will get painted over along with the wood.

6. Repeat to make the remaining two frames.

Painting the Frames.

1. Set up the paint and painting equipment. Put down a painting drop-cloth to protect the work surface.

2. Paint the frames on all sides. You can rest the frames on upturned yogurt pots or ice cream containers, or just wait for each wider side to dry before turning the frame over and doing the other side.

3. Repeat two to three times. The paintwork should appear smooth, glossy and well coated. Keep in mind how it'll look in your home. Allow to dry between each layer added.

Read the instructions accompanying the paint to help you to determine the right amount of layers. If it doesn't clarify this, try two, then go for three layers if you're not satisfied with two.

Adding the Hinges.

1. Attach the hinges to the sides of what will be the center frame. Place three hinges on each side, placing the top one approximately 30xm (12") from the top and the base one 30xm (12") from the base of the center frame. The center hinge goes in the middle between these two hinges.

2. Attach the frames together to form the divider. Attach the two side frames to the center frames at the hinges.

Attaching the Paper

1. Place the divider down on the floor, completely folded out flat. Have it facing reverse-side upward, as this is the side that you'll be attaching the paper pieces to.

2. Place the paper sheets over each frame. There needs to be an overlay section toward the middle of each frame, as the paper won't cover the whole frame length. Adjust to ensure that the paper is covering each frame sufficiently.

3. Trim the paper to fit the frames neatly. Ensure that there is sufficient paper to glue onto the wood frame part, to hold it in place. All trimming must be very straight and neat, so use a ruler if needed and/or get a helper with this stage.

4. Attach the paper. Paint glue around the wood parts and gently stretch the paper over the glue. Also gently hammer in some panel pins in each corner and center of each length the paper is attached to.

Be careful when stretching the paper, to avoid tearing it.

5. Allow to dry completely.

Finishing Up

1. Screw the corner covers onto each corner joint of the frames. This covers the joints and neatens the whole project.

2. Stand the divider up. Check that it opens and closes with ease. You may need to make adjustments if it's getting stuck.

3. Take to the room where it will be used. Set it up and enjoy your new paper room divider.


Method 2 Foam Room Divider.

1. Cut each 20x30 foam board into four (4) equal sized pieces with an Exacto knife. Each piece should be 10x15 inches.

2. Create slits. Make slits in each 10x15 piece of foam that are 0.5 cm wide (the approximate thickness of a foamcore board). Make one slit in the center, 5 inches deep. The remaining four slits will be 2.5 inches deep.

3. Arrange the foam pieces into an X shape. Do this by combining two pieces at the middle slit.

Take breaks. Cutting for this project takes many hours.

4. Round the sides of each piece. Use a large plate or something round to cut around. The end result will look much more modern and attractive.

5. Stack the X shapes by interlocking them to create a wall. Make sure to go layer-by-layer from the ground up, since you cannot add more pieces once you establish the overall width of the divider, without completely rearranging the wall.

If any pieces are left white, add Christmas or rope lights inside the vertical empty space. It will make it that much more impressive.

To stabilize the wall from falling you can use something heavy inside or outside the wall to keep it from tipping over.

Tips.

With the paper divider, do not wet it when cleaning. Only dust it with a duster or the brush attachment of a vacuum cleaner.

For the paper divider, match the paper and paint, or ensure that they complement each other well.

Try to find the cheapest foam boards. Perhaps at a 99 cent store.

Use foam-friendly spray paint if you paint it. (Ace Hardware has some small cans of it).

Warnings.

Be careful when cutting with the Exacto knife.

If the paper divider falls over, the paper may rip if caught on something. Should this happen, replace that area of paper using the steps outlined above in relation to adding it initially.


Paper room divider:

6 sheets of Japanese atsu unryu paper, measuring 120 x 85cm (48" x 34"), in pattern and/or color of choice.

6 strips of lightweight yet strong, good quality wood, measuring 4 x 4 x 150cm (1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 59").

6 strips of lightweight yet strong, good quality wood, measuring 4 x 4 x 75cm (1 /12" x 1 1/2" x 29 1/2").

6 hinges (brass ones are nice), as well as the appropriate screws.

12 corner covers (in color matching the paintwork you'll be using).

12 L-shaped plates.

Bradawl, Screws, Screwdriver, Hacksaw, Panel pins, Sandpaper, Hammer.

Covers for work-space (if needed), PVA or wood glue, Ruler.

Gloss paint in your choice of color (from the never-fail black or white paint colors to any color of the rainbow, make your pick depending on your décor and personal preference; be sure the paint is suitable for wood)

Paintbrush, Painting drop-cloth, Paint cleaning items, Scissors or craft trimmer.





Foam room divider.

20x30 Foamcore boards (many of them, amount dependent on how big you want the divider).

Exacto knife, Ruler.

A round plate or round object of some sort, Spray paint (if color is desired).

November 29, 2019