Looking for wall decor ideas to refresh your space? Those empty walls are filled with possibilities—and a few additions can make a house feel like a home. If you're ready to turn those stark, bare walls into stylish centerpieces, keep reading. No matter your style, we've got the tricks that can amp up your walls and bring out your personality and taste. Whether you’re an art collector, a nature enthusiast, or a book lover, your walls can be customized so that you can be surrounded by the things you adore. Discover 20 wall decor ideas that are sure to add style to your home.
Add Texture With a Weaving.
Those ’70s macramé wall hangings have come back in a big way. The weavings add texture and warm up stark walls. Shop for them on Etsy, or try your hand at making your own.
Add Removable Wall Art.
Minted has an incredible collection of grown-up, sophisticated removable wall art. The adhesive murals have a luxurious matte finish and come in a variety of styles. Removable wall art is perfect if you're renting and don't want to damage the walls.
Hang an Oversized Calendar.
A large calendar works especially well on an office or kitchen wall. Keep track of your events while also adding a standout element to enliven your room! Try bright and bold calendars with sans serif fonts to create a modern look and add a pop of color.
Add a Giant Whiteboard or Chalkboard.
A big board is a perfect functional addition to an office, playroom, or even kitchen. A chalkboard lends a rustic air to any room, while a whiteboard is the contemporary alternative—and you don't have to stick to just white (they're available in a variety of shades and prints). You can even take it to the next level and paint an entire wall with WriteWallPaint, which creates a writeable surface.
Create a Basket Wall
Bet you haven't considered this wall decor idea: Add baskets to your wall! Whether you want to go colorful or neutral, you can liven up any wall with an assortment of baskets in different sizes and textures.
Hang a Personalized Map.
Add a large word map to your room's decor. You can order a personalized map of a city, state, country, or the world in just about any color palette. You can make it ultra personal by adding pins to the places you've visited or plan to visit.
Mount Your Television.
Another way to go? Mount your television. Adding a flat screen to your wall can be a great way to free up space on top of your media cabinet, enhance your wall, and update the entire look of your living room or bedroom.
Add Shiplap Wall Paneling.
Shiplap paneling will infuse your space with a fresh coastal feeling—and it works in any room. Whether your dining room, bedroom, entryway, or even bathroom walls need a refresh, consider adding the wooden boards typically used as exterior siding.
Mount Your Bikes on the Wall.
Creating a stylish and sleek wall-mounting system for your bikes will give you more floor space and create an eye-catching focal point that will transform your blank wall. This is one of the most fun and functional wall decor ideas out there.
Use the Wall for Storage.
Short on closet space? Why not show off your finery and create a striking and practical display? Install hooks or a pegboard and hang hats in a cluster.
READ MORE https://futuristichomedecor.blogspot.com
Note :
Acknowledgements
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Have you ever wanted to have a house completely hidden from the view of other people? Do you like caves or the deep smell of moist earth? Do you fear the imminent apocalypse? Well, you might want to build an underground house. It will take some time and effort, but if you’re wiling to commit to the project you could have your own underground shelter sooner rather than later.
Method 1 Preparing to Build Your Underground House.
1. Check your zoning laws. You can call your state to check the zoning laws of your property to see if you are allowed to put a new building on your property. You don’t want the state to ruin the fun by fining you for your newly created underground house. Even if you’re underground you're not safe from the law.
2. Get permission from the state to dig. More official business. You need to pre-mark the area on your property that you want to excavate with stakes and white paint. Then you call your state’s Dig Safe branch and describe the area that you plan to dig in. Hopefully they will grant you permission. You definitely have to do this to ensure that you’re not going to dig into a sewage system or something like that.
3. Hire a professional excavator or buy professional equipment. Hiring a professional to do it for you wouldn’t be the worst idea. Depending on the size of your house you probably are going to need to use heavy machinery, and if you have no experience with that hiring a professional is probably the way to go. Search for professional excavators on the internet or contact a local construction company. They should be able to quote you a cost and at the very least offer you some helpful tips. You may be able to negotiate a price to use their equipment if you can prove that you are trained to use it.
4. Find someone willing to help you. This isn’t a solo job even if you really want it to be. When you’re excavating or dealing with heavy materials you need someone to make sure that you are safe. You are going to be dealing with a lot of heavy materials and working in the earth and something could happen at any time. Make sure you have a partner.
5. Find a suitable location. Look for a spot that is outside of your area’s 100-year flood plain and isn't near any steep slopes that might trigger a landslide. A large open space is probably best suited for an underground house, because tree roots can also cause issues during excavation. The odds are that you will be trying to build this house on your own property, so you probably don't have to worry too much but just be aware.
Generally you want to stay away from any large objects like trees, boulders, or multi-story buildings.
You also shouldn't place your house near any concentrations of fuel or any hazardous materials.
Method 2 Designing Your Underground House.
1. Develop detailed structural plans. Work with an architect to design a scaled design and floor plan for your underground house. This plan should be complete with dimensions, details on the potential materials that will be used,
2. Design your house. As you design your house you should consider air and water filtration systems, potential light sources, and food storage space. [3] Draw a model of your house to scale using the structural plans that you already created. Now draw in where all the installed appliances will go first, then the furniture, then anything else you would like to include in your plan. Be aware of the following constraints as well.
If you are going to be underground for very long periods of time you will need to have your water set up to some sort of renewing water source and you will also need a ton of space to keep the food you have fresh. This means many refrigerators and a reliable power generator.
A reliable air circulation and filtration system is also crucial to avoid getting carbon dioxide poisoning or other airborne illnesses.
3. Include an entrance and exit in your design. This can be as simple as a ladder with a hatch on the top or even a tunnel leading up and to the outside. The easiest option is buying a staircase. You can buy a staircase online and have it delivered to your house, so it doesn’t even need to be part of the construction if you don’t want.
If you decide to use a ladder you may need to secure the ladder to the wall with metal supports. Buy U-shaped metal supports at a home improvement store and secure these into your wall over the steps of your ladder. This will keep it stable while you are climbing up and down. You can also buy airtight hatches to secure the top of your entrance. Once again it is important to make sure that your hatch is significantly wider and longer than the hole you wish to cover.
Method 3 Planning the Excavation.
1. Develop a strategy to dig your hole. Remember to dig based on the excavation area that you received permission to dig in. If you dig outside of that you risk digging into something like a sewer line or a fiber optic cable. Also know what kind of soil you'll be excavating. If you're digging into bedrock you won't get very far.
You also should check your soil records at the town office before you start digging to see what you are going to be digging into and what kind of equipment you will need. Ask the clerk at the town office about your property and they will have the records available for you to see most of the time. If they don't, you might have to have someone come and survey your land.
2. Investigate the conditions of your soil. It’s incredibly important to know what kind of soil you are working with, and this will also inform your digging strategy. Have a professional come and survey your soil.
3. Consider a cut and cover strategy. Cut and cover works if you are digging in relatively soft soil. The idea is that you dig out an area, build a concrete structure inside of it, and then cover the hole thing up with dirt again. Obviously you want to keep your hatch or staircase exposed so that you can enter into your structure. However, if your soil will allow for it this is a good way to build a large framework for your home.
4. Save the excess soil. This is especially important if you plan to create a berm house. A berm house is a house that is covered by soil but still has windows and doorways to the outside. Your house will sit in a deep foundation and once you have completed the construction of the building you can push the dirt up the sides and on top of the house to create the berm look. This will require a reinforced roof.
Method 4 Constructing Your Underground House.
1. Build a perimeter wood frame. You will pour concrete into this frame in order to create a footing. The footings will form the basis for your foundation. The boards should be built according to the specifications of your foundation in your designed plan.
2. Install footings to provide the base for your foundation. Remember to seal the footings to protect them from moisture. Use a high quality sealer. You can pour concrete either directly into trenches or into wood forms.
3. Create stem walls. Start with the corners of the foundation and then build a plum and level wall connecting the two corners. Having something to connect the wall to on either side makes the process easier. It’s much easier to spot if the wall is out of alignment. Remove the flaws using hand trowels.
4. Consider using reinforced concrete on the walls. You will want to use it on the ceiling too if you plan to cover your roof heavily with dirt and soil. Living underground will keep the temperatures relatively moderate, but the earth also puts a huge amount of pressure on the walls and ceiling of your house. It’s also essential to hire a structural engineer to design earthquake resistant elements if you live in an earthquake prone area.
5. Decide what kind of ceiling you want. You can choose a material as simple as wood boards or something more complex, but sturdier, like brick or concrete. If you choose brick or concrete ensure that you building has strong structural supports.
6. Plan to have scaffolding or brick pillars secure your ceiling. You will have to lay the brick yourself by buying brick and mortar and building a thick pillar up to the ceiling. A six brick base should provide a decent support. If your room is very large you will want to build a few supports. Scaffolding is something that you can buy at a home improvement store, but is more likely to bend and break. Take this step very seriously or you risk potential cave-ins.
7. Use wood beams to outline the rooms in your house. Set up these rooms in accordance with your design plans. Make sure that you leave space in the walls for any potential wiring that you’ll need to do.
8. Consider insulation. Even though you’re living underground you may need insulation. This will keep your heating and cooling costs down and make your energy use much more efficient. Wait until after you have completed the wiring before you install the insulation.
Method 5 Buying a Premade Underground House.
1. Research the kind of underground shelter you would want. Believe it or not there are plenty of companies that specialize in underground shelters. You'll be able to find a number of companies on the internet that can sell you pre-made houses in a variety of different styles. You can go pretty crazy here if you’re willing to spend a lot of money. Try to consider your price range and the amount of people that you plan to have living with you in this shelter.
2. Purchase your underground house. In most of these situations you have to buy the shelter outright, because generally the idea is that you’ll be holed up in the shelter once you have it. However, some of these companies offer financing.
3. Obtain approval to dig on your property. You first need to pre -mark your excavation area with white paint or stakes. Then call your state excavation number to describe the exact area where you plane to excavate. You will not be allowed to dig outside of this area. In Massachusetts this number is 8-1-1, but it varies state by state. This is important to ensure that you don't dig into a buried sewage system or fiber optic cable.
4. Have your underground house delivered and installed. This is included in the price. Make sure there is a path for their truck to deliver your new house. You can’t have your dig site all the way out in the middle of the woods if there is no road to get there.The installation may take several days, so be aware of that.
Question : How much money do I need to build an underground house?
Answer : It depends on how big the house is and what materials you use, but probably $10K or more.
Question : Is it possible to use this as a super secret lab? Do I need to buy all the super scientific stuff myself?
Answer : You could do that, or anything else your imagination suggests. And, yes, you would probably have to buy everything.
Question : How do you get underground? And put big objects down there without digging up the house?
Answer : Usually, underground houses are built by digging out space on the side of a hill. The house is constructed then the dirt is moved back on top of the structure. One side of the house is usually left exposed.
Question : What would happen if I built an underground house using wood instead of concrete and bricks in a rocky soil? Will it fall down on me?
Answer : While the type of soil would affect the distribution and absorption, all types will bring rain or surface water down to the building materials. Wood, when exposed to water, weakens and rots; it is an essential part of its natural breakdown process. So, yes, it would come apart and quickly, likely falling down on itself in the process.
Question : Instead of either ladder or stairway how about an elevator?
Answer : While elevators can go into basements, they have large foundational and protection requirements. They take a lot of material, space and need plenty of protection around them, such as a building. They are too big for most, and require so much building around them - for the above-ground entry - that it defies what most people picture for an underground house. Besides, they're expensive to build, run and maintain, too.
Question : Should I have a normal house on top?
Answer : There are pros and cons: a normal house distracts from an underground one, and gives you the advantages of both types. However, an above-ground house is not hidden, and may not fit into your plans (such as defense or a location not being found). It is about your preferences.
Tips.
When constructing any trench or hole angle the walls back slightly, so the top is larger than the floor. this lets gravity help you hold back the pressure of the dirt walls.
A phone in case of emergency may be useful.
Before adding the roof always brace the sides of the trench and hole to prevent cave ins.
Ventilation holes are a very good thing to build maybe behind a plant so your underground house will stay secret.
When you brace the walls, drive the stick or pole into the floor, pushing against the wall so that in order for you to push your finger behind the board, you would hurt yourself, or at least get really dirty fingernails.
Brace all walls and never dig deep without a friend near you and above ground.
Have your house inspected by a professional so that you know it won’t collapse.
Plan ahead. You don’t want to work on this during the winter or inclement weather.
Commit time to the project. If you really want an underground house it’s going to be a long process.
Do not try to build an underground home if you live below sea level. You probably will hit water.
Many people have one very big loan, and that is a home mortgage. A mortgage can end up costing much more than your house is worth and takes much of your lifetime to pay off. One creative way to sidestep this problem is to make the choice to live in a tiny house. It is also a great way to live a minimalist life, avoiding being tied down by too much stuff. This article will start you off with some basic steps to cover when seeking to build a tiny house.
Part 1 Planning Your Build.
1. Figure out what kind of lifestyle you want to live. Your needs for mobility, stability and space will determine the type of tiny house you will be seeking to develop. Consider the following:
If you intend to move a lot, then a trailer-based home is probably a good choice.
If you think you'll maybe move once or twice, then you can use a bigger trailer base for your house a rent a truck to move it for you when the time comes.
Build onto the tiny house. You also have the option of building extensions to the main house, such as a deck or rooftop patio.
If you have a spot to build on, then you can do normal construction on a spot of land (this tends to be more expensive and permanent).
2. Determine what needs your home must meet. Sit down and make a list of all the things you want in your home. Of course, this is a tiny house, so you need to focus on the necessities, as there isn't any room for a lot of stuff. Examples of important basics for the house include:
One or more beds.
Appliances such as the oven, fridge, stovetop, microwave, etc., remembering that all of these will likely be much smaller than those you'd have in a standard size house.
Washer-dryer combo instead of two different machines.
3. Find a location to either park the trailer base or to build your tiny house in situ. Choose a location with accessibility to water and electricity. If this is not possible find a way to come up with alternatives. For example, many people prefer to use solar power and collect rain as part of the tiny house philosophy.
Part 2 Creating a First Draft of the House.
1. Map out all the things you want in your house. As you do so, keep in mind the exact amount of space you have to work with. It will always be less than you expect, so don't be surprised if you have to let go of some dream ideas but see this as an opportunity to be inventive rather than giving up on everything.
Include plenty of storage space and clever ideas such as stairs that include storage underneath.
This step works best by making an electronic floor plan of the house, or you can also make a actual model by hand so that you get a good sense of how it will look in your hands.
2. Scale the design so that the dimensions of your model will be accurate when building the house. A key aspect of this step is to build the house around the appliances you want. Go online and find the appliances that you will buy and go to the specs of the product. There will be dimensions for you to include in your floor plan/model.
Part 3 Making a Budget.
1. Work out the budget by concentrating on the main elements involved. These are appliances, labour, building materials and tools. Usually to build the house with all the desirable (kitchen, trailer, siding, etc.), an average cost is about $35,000 for a 24 ft trailer house. Keep in mind that the smaller the trailer, the cheaper the build. And, if you want fancier things and bigger size, the tiny house can cost up to $100,000.
2. Work out the appliance budget. With the appliances that you have selected in your floor plans as a base, include how much you can spend immediately. Then work out how much you can spend over time (that is, how much you can deduct from your paycheck towards the build).
3. Determine what you can do yourself. Then include the amount of labour that you can put in for things you can do yourself.
4. Figure out the cost of labour for professionals (i.e. plumber, electrician, builders).
5. Cost the tools you will need for your build. Renting the tools when necessary is one way to go so you don't have to put too much money into tools that you will not use again. For some basic tools it might be a better idea to just buy and own them if you don't already have them.This list provides a rundown of the tools you'll likely need.
Air compressor – Drives air powered tools like framing nailers and paint sprayers.
Caulking gun – Used to apply caulking and building adhesive.
Chalk line – Helps mark strait lines so that paneling, siding, and roofing stay in line.
Chisel – Used to finish cutting notches in wood.
Circular Saw – Handheld saw for cutting wood. Very versatile.
Clamps – Very useful when you need a second set of hands and none are available.
Crowbar – Good for amplifying elbow grease, and pulling nails.
Drill – Used for drilling holes and driving screws.
Dust Masks – Essential for protecting your lungs during dusty work.
Eye Protection – Essential for protecting your eyes during most cutting and other debris flinging work.
Framing nailer – Makes driving nails much easier.
Gloves – Essential for protecting your hands from splinters and abrasions.
Hacksaw – Used for cutting metal like pipes, nails, etc.
Hammer – Used for persuading lots of things on the job site, most commonly nails.
Impact driver – Like a drill, but drives screws better when the job is tough.
Level – Used to keep everything strait and level.
Miter saw – Used as a chop saw when many identical angered or strait cuts are needed.
Pliers – Used for pulling nails and most anything when your fingers aren’t tough enough.
Reciprocating Saw – Commonly used for demolition but also very handy for cutting nails and rough cuts on wood.
Rubber mallet – Ideal wen gentile persuasion is needed.
Socket wrench – Good for turning nuts in tight places, like when bolting your tiny house floor framing to the trailer.
Screwdrivers – Needed for turning screws and useful for opening paint cans.
Staple gun – Good for hanging vapor barriers, roofing felt, and can be used on house wrap.
Table saw – Ideal for making long strait cuts.
Tape measure – Used constantly for keeping everything accurate.
Tin snips – Used for cutting thin metal, like the aluminum flashing you’d use between your floor and trailer.
Toolbox – Helpful for keeping everything organized and transportable.
Utility knife – Used to cut thin material like roofing felt, house wrap, and vapor barrier.
Wire cutter – Used when wiring your tiny house.
Wrench – Necessary for turning nuts on bolts, like when connecting your tiny house to the trailer.
6. Put together a materials list. A typical list of materials that you will need in your tiny house. The amount of each that you will need depends on your build, and the cost will therefore reflect what type of tiny house you're building. Here are standard materials needed:
Trailer (varies in the size and length, wood for floors, walls, ceiling, and interior structures.
Installation for the walls, floor and ceiling (recommend Roxul - fire and water resistant).
Class D tires for the trailer, Typical house siding, Typical shingles for roof, Drywall.
Doors and windows, Cabinets and storage closets (many can be built from reclaimed wood if feasible).
Toilet (composting, RV toilet, or a actual functioning toilet).
Shower (typically small standing shower is used, a small tub can be added with creativity).
Sinks (kitchen, and bathroom), Counter-tops, Plenty of screws, braces, and nails.
Pipes for plumbing and propane lines for heating and water lines.
Electrical circuit wiring, outlets, switches, and breakers.
Tyvek wrapping for protection (or similar suited to your area).
Heating system, Regular appliances as selected by you.
Metal sheeting for flashing the trailer base (galvanized for durability).
7. Include solar power elements, as needed. If solar panels are going to be added, then you'll need the following as well: A charge controller, deep cycle batteries, and inverter to store charge and convert from DC to AC power.
Part 4 Constructing Your Tiny House.
Build the foundation of your tiny house
1. Level the trailer using jacks for the trailer. This step is important to do properly or your house will be tilted.
2. Build a frame on the trailer that your house will be built. Anchor the frame to the trailer so that your house does not slide off the trailer during transport keep in mind the weight distribution so that your house does not tip over.
3. Add galvanized sheet metal to flash the bottom of the trailer. This helps protect the home from rodents, water, and other elements from the bottom.
4. Put a floor frame on top. Add the insulation (Roxul) for more protection.
5. Install the sub floor on top.
Wall Framing
1. Build the walls as you had designed in your floor plans. Leave room for the windows and doors, as well as putting in the studs, and weight barring headers.
The headers are one of the aspects that are against building code, but are necessary for a tiny house, as every wall is a weight bearing wall.
You must ensure that everything is perfectly squared.
2. Double check that the windows and door fit in the spaces you made for them. Do this before you put the walls up.
At this point you might want to move anything inside the house that will not fit through the door depending on the design.
3. Sheath the walls while they are still down. Then raise the walls (with help, for safety reasons). Make sure that the walls are perfectly squared with the floor and other walls.
4. Secure the walls to the trailer with anchors.
Adding the Roof
1. Make sure that walls are perfectly parallel with each other before installing the rafters. Apply a spring brace to secure the walls and make them perfectly straight while installing the rafter
Double check the distance between the walls at the top for a good cut.
2. Construct the trusses per the plans that you made. Ensure that the height is under 13.5 ft to stay street legal (this may vary between countries, so check with the road authorities first).
3. Begin the sheathing process. Cut out the boards and glue the truss edges. Use clips to secure the sheets of wood into place and secure with nail/screws
4. Apply the Tyvek covering for more protection on the sheathing boards.
5. Install the reflection barrier followed by the furring strips and shingles.
Adding the Windows, Doors, and Siding
1. Make sure that door and window holes were cut in the walls that were put up.
2. Put Tyvek wrap outside the house for protection
3. Tuck the Tyvek wrapping into the window cut outs. Begin applying flash tape to the window sills to prevent water and heat from entering.
4. Install the windows and secure with a couple screws along the side. Then test the functionality.
5. Apply flashing tape to the outside of the window to insure it is sealed. Leave the bottom unsealed for water drainage, just in case.
For the doors, do the same thing as windows and flash the doorway then start installing the door frame.
6. Install the door. This can be made or purchased.
7. Install locks and door knobs.
8. Begin the siding process by taping the Tyvek seams and installing the furring strips. Paint both sides of the siding before putting up, to prevent rusting.
9. Hang the siding with a nail gun or as the product describes.
10. End the work on the outside by installing fascia boards and a drip edge.
Part 5 Creating the Interior of the Tiny House
1. Install a lofted platform at an optimal height for the sleeping area. This is a common practice in a tiny house. It will also need a ladder or staircase to reach the loft area.
2. Get electrical and plumbing installed by a professional at this point. Do not do this yourself unless you are a professional in these fields.
Make sure you instruct the professional on where you want your outlets, lights and sockets for your tiny house to accommodate the floor plan, such as gas lines for the propane to the stove/oven or water lines to the water heater and shower.
Put in the smoke and CO alarms at the same time.
Consider the power usage or your appliances and adjust accordingly.
3. Begin insulating the home from the inside. Make sure to put foam in the edges so that it is completely sealed.
Make sure that all materials are not affected by the foam, as some do react and that is not a good outcome.
4. Install the major fixtures now. This includes the heater, shower, toilet, sink, and water heater (preferably tankless). The heater weight should be considered in conjunction with the weight of the tiny house as a whole, and a safety zone and materials placed around it.
5. Install the desired flooring. For example, you could use hardwood in the living area and light tiles in the kitchen and bathroom areas. Splashbacks can also be used.
6. Install drywall and/or wall panels.
7. Construct the cabinets and counter tops for the kitchen. It is great if you can use recycled wood for these purposes. Include hookups and openings for the oven, fridge, and sink, etc.
8. Construct and install the bathroom vanity and storage. Install vents and the toilet.
9. Build in the storage units as per the initial design. You may also realize other possible storage options, so remain flexible and open to relevant changes.
10. Put in bulbs and outlet covers.
11. Decorate as desired. Your tiny house is complete. Now you can move in and enjoy your own space.
Question : How do I add a bathroom?
Answer : You need to decide whether you want it to be a whole little room of its own or just a cupboard-style loo with tiny shower. Keep it at one end of the tiny house and make sure it's well ventilated. Keep in mind weight if you're adding a bathtub.
Tips.
While planning make notes of the materials you will use in there largest quantities as most stores will give you better deals when you buy in bulk. However it is necessary to know exact quantities as to not over buy, then your just wasting your money.
Keep in mind the Material while building, so most building materials come in increments of 4 to 8 feet, so build the house around those dimensions to keep it easier.
Warnings.
- Loans are hard to get when there is no much that you have to put up for collateral, it is almost impossible for someone just starting out to get a loan on a none.
Laws - building codes are generally made for regular houses, and city building codes usually frown on most of the common practices the tiny homes follow.
Land - It is hard to find a piece of land to set your tiny house up on, in-city is almost impossible, and outside in a rural area will not have proper hookups.
When putting up the walls, it is important to have help, as this is very dangerous for one person to do alone.
A room divider can be a perfect solution to not having privacy in a room or where there is a need to make the room more useful space-wise. While there are plenty available to buy, they may not come with the style or design that works for your décor, or they may just be too pricey. Fortunately, with a little willingness to do some basic woodwork and crafting, you can create your own at home for a lot less than buying a brand new one.
Method 1 Paper Room Divider.
1. Prepare the work-space first. Lay down clean sheets or similar to protect the work surface and to provide a nice area to work on.
Making the frames
1. Form three frames that create the divider. To do this, start with the first frame.
2. Saw the corners of the wood pieces at a 45 degree angle. This is necessary to allow the wood pieces to fit together snugly.
3. Lay the first frame out on the floor, on your work-space. Place a short piece (one of the pieces measuring 4 x 4 x 75cm (1 /12" x 1 1/2" x 29 1/2")) on the work surface. Then place a long piece on each side of this. Finish by placing the other short piece at the base. This forms a large rectangle, namely the frame.
4. Join the four pieces of wood together. Using the glue suitable for wood, glue the angled corners together, to attach each piece of wood permanently to form the frame. Push the join together for a bit using your hands or a clamp, to help ensure a tight affixing and to ensure that the glue works as it should. Allow to fully dry.
5. Strengthen the joint areas. Where the angled parts have been glued together, use the L-shaped plates. Screw these onto the reverse side of the corner joins. Don't worry, these will get painted over along with the wood.
6. Repeat to make the remaining two frames.
Painting the Frames.
1. Set up the paint and painting equipment. Put down a painting drop-cloth to protect the work surface.
2. Paint the frames on all sides. You can rest the frames on upturned yogurt pots or ice cream containers, or just wait for each wider side to dry before turning the frame over and doing the other side.
3. Repeat two to three times. The paintwork should appear smooth, glossy and well coated. Keep in mind how it'll look in your home. Allow to dry between each layer added.
Read the instructions accompanying the paint to help you to determine the right amount of layers. If it doesn't clarify this, try two, then go for three layers if you're not satisfied with two.
Adding the Hinges.
1. Attach the hinges to the sides of what will be the center frame. Place three hinges on each side, placing the top one approximately 30xm (12") from the top and the base one 30xm (12") from the base of the center frame. The center hinge goes in the middle between these two hinges.
2. Attach the frames together to form the divider. Attach the two side frames to the center frames at the hinges.
Attaching the Paper
1. Place the divider down on the floor, completely folded out flat. Have it facing reverse-side upward, as this is the side that you'll be attaching the paper pieces to.
2. Place the paper sheets over each frame. There needs to be an overlay section toward the middle of each frame, as the paper won't cover the whole frame length. Adjust to ensure that the paper is covering each frame sufficiently.
3. Trim the paper to fit the frames neatly. Ensure that there is sufficient paper to glue onto the wood frame part, to hold it in place. All trimming must be very straight and neat, so use a ruler if needed and/or get a helper with this stage.
4. Attach the paper. Paint glue around the wood parts and gently stretch the paper over the glue. Also gently hammer in some panel pins in each corner and center of each length the paper is attached to.
Be careful when stretching the paper, to avoid tearing it.
5. Allow to dry completely.
Finishing Up
1. Screw the corner covers onto each corner joint of the frames. This covers the joints and neatens the whole project.
2. Stand the divider up. Check that it opens and closes with ease. You may need to make adjustments if it's getting stuck.
3. Take to the room where it will be used. Set it up and enjoy your new paper room divider.
Method 2 Foam Room Divider.
1. Cut each 20x30 foam board into four (4) equal sized pieces with an Exacto knife. Each piece should be 10x15 inches.
2. Create slits. Make slits in each 10x15 piece of foam that are 0.5 cm wide (the approximate thickness of a foamcore board). Make one slit in the center, 5 inches deep. The remaining four slits will be 2.5 inches deep.
3. Arrange the foam pieces into an X shape. Do this by combining two pieces at the middle slit.
Take breaks. Cutting for this project takes many hours.
4. Round the sides of each piece. Use a large plate or something round to cut around. The end result will look much more modern and attractive.
5. Stack the X shapes by interlocking them to create a wall. Make sure to go layer-by-layer from the ground up, since you cannot add more pieces once you establish the overall width of the divider, without completely rearranging the wall.
If any pieces are left white, add Christmas or rope lights inside the vertical empty space. It will make it that much more impressive.
To stabilize the wall from falling you can use something heavy inside or outside the wall to keep it from tipping over.
Tips.
With the paper divider, do not wet it when cleaning. Only dust it with a duster or the brush attachment of a vacuum cleaner.
For the paper divider, match the paper and paint, or ensure that they complement each other well.
Try to find the cheapest foam boards. Perhaps at a 99 cent store.
Use foam-friendly spray paint if you paint it. (Ace Hardware has some small cans of it).
Warnings.
Be careful when cutting with the Exacto knife.
If the paper divider falls over, the paper may rip if caught on something. Should this happen, replace that area of paper using the steps outlined above in relation to adding it initially.
Paper room divider:
6 sheets of Japanese atsu unryu paper, measuring 120 x 85cm (48" x 34"), in pattern and/or color of choice.
6 strips of lightweight yet strong, good quality wood, measuring 4 x 4 x 150cm (1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 59").
6 strips of lightweight yet strong, good quality wood, measuring 4 x 4 x 75cm (1 /12" x 1 1/2" x 29 1/2").
6 hinges (brass ones are nice), as well as the appropriate screws.
12 corner covers (in color matching the paintwork you'll be using).
Covers for work-space (if needed), PVA or wood glue, Ruler.
Gloss paint in your choice of color (from the never-fail black or white paint colors to any color of the rainbow, make your pick depending on your décor and personal preference; be sure the paint is suitable for wood)
Paintbrush, Painting drop-cloth, Paint cleaning items, Scissors or craft trimmer.
Foam room divider.
20x30 Foamcore boards (many of them, amount dependent on how big you want the divider).
Exacto knife, Ruler.
A round plate or round object of some sort, Spray paint (if color is desired).
