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How to Choose Winter Interior Decor.



Home decor in general is, of course, a matter of personal taste, so when you're looking to decorate the house for winter, the best guide to follow is your own gut. However, an important first step is to decide which areas to focus on, both in your home overall and then within each room. Finding ways to emphasize warmth will then make your home that much comfier during the coldest months. And for those of you who take your shoes off indoors, layering rugs during the winter is a further way to add warmth while adding seasonal variety to your decor.







Deciding Where and How to Decorate.



Choose which rooms to decorate. If you have the budget, time, and inclination to overhaul your home entirely, feel free to go wild. If not, however, prioritize rooms that see the most use. Don't waste time and money on, say, your bedroom, which hardly anyone but you will see. Instead, focus on areas like your.

Living room.

Family room.

Dining room.

Kitchen.

Bathroom(s).



Pick a color scheme. If you're a purist, bring the outside in with seasonal colors that emphasize cold. If, on the other hand, you want to make your home a comfy hideaway from the elements, go the opposite route with warm colors. There's no right or wrong, so follow your instincts and please your own taste.

Cold color schemes include white paired with either blue, burgundy, emerald, gray, plum, or silver.

Warm colors also include white, as well as browns, reds, and yellows.

To find colors that match your paint, furniture, and other decor, use online color palettes.

Add seasonal decorations. If you celebrate Christmas, you're probably already starting the winter off by decorating for that. But whether or not you celebrate that holiday, search the aisles or online for decorations that don't tie directly into the holiday. Use these to decorate your home throughout the winter season, even after you've packed all the Santa stuff away.

Items to look for include figurines, framed pictures, snow globes, wreaths, and garland.

Neutral designs include snowmen, sleighs, winter villages, and bare or snow-covered evergreens.



Use small touches to drive winter home. Again, if you want to go hog-wild about it, feel free to make your home a winter wonderland with any number of appropriately themed decorations. But if time, budget, and space is limited, use them wisely. Consider:

Choosing one fanciful item to stand out as a seasonal centerpiece in a given area, like a model winter village to top a mantelpiece, bureau, or window seat.

Replacing everyday items with seasonally decorated ones, like dish- or hand towels, salt and pepper shakers, and placemats.

Investing in seasonal pillow cases, blankets, comforters, and/or even sofa- and armchair covers to quickly punch up areas like bedrooms, living rooms, and dens.



Choose decorations that transition from season to season. Between school and holidays, both fall and winter can be busy times of year, so plan ahead to minimize work. As you decorate for each season and/or holiday, use items that will still be appropriate as you roll over to the next so you can minimize work. For instance:

Red, yellow, orange, and brown scream autumn when bunched together, but each is a warm color that can help make your winter home more inviting. Say you decorated your living room with throw pillows in all four colors for fall. Simply take away the yellow and orange ones and leave the red and brown pillows.

Hanging wreaths with bare branches is a popular way to decorate for both fall and winter. Simply swap the autumn leaves with more winter-appropriate flair like holly leaves, oranges, or leaves painted in cool colors like blue or silver.

Evergreen garland and pine cones are Christmas favorites, but on their own they work just as well for the whole winter.









Making Your Space Feel Warm and Cozy.



Provide literal warmth with fire. If your house has one, use your fireplace! Rearrange the furniture to make the hearth the centerpiece of that room. Make a blazing fire a daily, nightly, or weekly ritual with your loved ones.

If your fireplace is inoperable, stack some bright firewood in the rack anyway to suggest the idea of a nice warm fire.



Set out candles. Whether or not you have a fireplace, light candles to add the flickering glow of flames to your home. Choose candlesticks or holders that enhance the winter theme either by color, design, or both. Enhance the effect by burning scented candles that fill the house with pleasing smells that highlight the season.

Gold or brass candlesticks provide warm colors and reflective surfaces, enhancing the light and suggestion of warmth.

Mugs, bowls, and jars filled with readymade candles and decorated with seasonal designs are also widely available.

Popular scents for winter include cinnamon, cloves, oranges, pine cones, and various types of wood.

Alternatively, you can also use LED candles if you're worried about fire risks or forbidden to use candles.



Add throws to seating areas. Drape throw blankets over the backs of your couches and armchairs. Arrange throw pillows in the corners of each one, too. If you have an accent chair, pile extras on the seat so family, roommates, and guests can help themselves as needed. Don't be mingy with them; the more, the better!

Choose neutral-colored throw pillows and blankets to use year-round. This way, you can easily dress up each seating area with just a couple of new winter-themed blankets and/or pillows.



Change your curtains. Make an instant dramatic change to your home by hanging curtains selected especially for winter. Choose whichever color or design highlights the season best for your tastes, but favor thick, heavy fabrics to suggest more warmth and protection from the cold outside. For the best insulation, choose thermal curtains, which are designed to prevent heat from escaping while also blocking drafts from the windows.

If you miss the sunlight in winter and still want to let it in without keeping the drapes shut all day, you can also find thermal-backed vertical blinds that allow more light to pass through with minimal heat loss.







Layering Rugs for Extra Coziness.



Determine the best spaces to layer rugs. Assess how much visibility the floor area receives in each room. Favor open areas over small, cramped ones. Use layered rugs where they will stand out and be noticed, rather than areas where furniture blocks them from view.

Larger rooms like the living room or den are generally ideal for this. Depending on the square footage and the amount of furniture inside, master bedrooms can also be a likely candidate.

Layered rugs can also be used in smaller spaces with little or no furniture, like hallways or bathrooms. However, expect rugs to possibly wear out faster here due to concentrated foot traffic.



Select your rugs. Maybe you're buying both at once, or perhaps you're trying to pair a new rug with one that you already own. Either way, make sure the base rug and accent rug complement each other. Make your selections according to.

Size: whether you're choosing an accent rug, base rug, or both, aim to have at least one foot (30.5 cm) of the base rug revealed along each side of the accent rug. With the base rug, always err on the side of too big if you're unsure of how large a rug you should select.

Supporting role versus starring role: favor neutral rugs for your base. Let the accent rug shine by choosing a base rug that won't upstage it. At the same time, make life easier by going with a base rug that can be used year-round while you switch accent rugs by season.

Contrast: make the accent rug pop out even more by pairing it with a base rug that contrasts it. Use color, pile height, shape, texture, or a combination of these features to make your selections more eye-catching.



Lay out your rugs. For areas like hallways or bathrooms without furniture, simply center the rugs in the open floor space. In more heavily furnished rooms, use your rugs to define specific spaces within that room, such as a sitting area in your living room, or the desk area in your home office. This may take a little trial-and-error depending on the sizes of your rugs, the open space available, and the surrounding furniture. For example.

One rule of thumb is to cover at least two feet (61 cm) of both rugs with the furniture surrounding it. Let's say your rug is being placed at the foot of a single 3-seat sofa in the living room, with no other surrounding furniture. As long as you're happy with the amount of rug visible, this should be fine.

Now let's say you're framing the rugs with an L-shaped couch. Covering two feet on either side of the base rug may look fine, but doing the same to a small accent rug may not. Here, you may want to pull the accent rug out from underneath on one or both sides..

Now say that you also have a coffee table to go with your L-shaped couch. If it's solid wood (as opposed to glass and see-through), you may wish to pull either the accent rug or both rugs further out from underneath the couch so they are more visible.


November 17, 2019


How to Build a Straw Bale House.


Building a straw bale and plaster house is a low-cost and environmentally friendly way to create a home. This guide covers the materials and methods you might use to build a straw bale house, a house that can last hundreds of years, is energy efficient and is cheap to maintain. For simplicity, this article will not include instruction on the installation of services such as natural gas, electricity or water and sewer: It covers only the details about how to build the shell.



Steps.

1. Make a plan. How big? How many rooms? What services do you want? Where are the windows and doors going to go ?

Draw up the floor plan. On your diagram, you should roughly sketch the room layouts and locate the drain lines precisely (for concrete slab) where the shower, bathtub and toilet drain connections will be (wood floors with a crawl space allows easier changes of such locations).

Image titled Build a Straw Bale House Step 1Bullet1

Each section of the exterior wall should be a multiple of the standard bale length you plan to use. This will allow you to minimize the number of bales that you cut and will also minimize waste.

2. Decide what type of base you will use to support the floor of the first story. Typical choices are a concrete pad or a timber base consisting of a double outside band with center beam(s) supported by columns and connected by floor joists on 16" centers. If you opt for the traditional wood frame, check your local building code for the dimensions of each frame element.

3. Prepare the foundation footings to be below the frost line in cold climates, and floor to be level, on an attractive slope or level ground (easier). Check your local building codes for the size and composition of exterior wall foundation. Fresh water plumbing, electrical wiring and natural gas pipes will be added above the slab, under timber floors, in walls or above ceilings.

4. Build a frame of timber or metal. The frame transfers the load of the roof down on to the foundation and should be strong enough for this purpose. You can cut in 1X4 inch bracing "straps" (set in the thickness of the 1X4) into timber outer stud-walls (posts or pillars) diagonally from the corners near the floor into the top plate -- or 2X4 inch diagonal braces nailed or bolted between vertical elements -- to prevent lateral movement within the frame, and the base of each upright timber should be anchored well to the foundation. Cables may be stretched through the bales of the structure, if desired for stability, to share stresses of possible bulging or shifting of bales.

5. Stay dry during construction by putting the roof on before going any further. Put the roof on before adding the wall bales because you don't want your bales to get soaked with rain, snow or ice.

6. Make straw bale walls, not using hay, but using straw. Straw is from harvested grain stalks (never use bales of grass). These need to remain dry, less than 20% moisture content, and tightly bound to prevent moist air (including fog) getting in before plastering. Both factors are important to prevent the rotting of the bales after construction. To build the wall, you start by sharpening some staves (inch thick willow stems) and then securing them vertically in the wood or concrete base (you will need to drill a hole, or perhaps poke them in when the concrete is still wet). Bales should then be further reinforced with "U" shaped willow stems that must be bent while the stems are green (or use another kind of straight staves, and bendable pipe for U shape ones).

Make U shaped staves: Select a one meter willow stave and mark the stave at 33 centimeter (13 in) from each end, take a big hammer and bash the green stave on these marks until the fibers of the wood are mashed, split and softened. These bashed areas are then bendable; bend the stave into U shape and then get to work. Each layer (or course) of bales are stacked up and pinning them until you have reached your desired height, during this process staves of willow should be driven down through alternate bails to fix it to the bail below. The U staves are use to attach between lined up blocks. This is especially important on the top course. When the desired height has been reached some kind of strap can be placed around the entire wall (top to bottom) to add further stability and strength, but not stressed extremely tightly.

7. Plaster the walls. There are many types of soft plaster that can be used, some based on formulations of locally available materials. Choose the best one by balancing availability, cost and effectiveness for your climate. Apply with traditional plastering tools for a smooth finish or with your hands for a rustic finish. Make sure, though to cover every last bit of exposed straw: None should be showing, unplastered. Otherwise fire is more easily started, and dampness or vermin can get in.

8. Put in the windows and doors. You should have left holes for these, bridged with lintels (horizontal headers which support the weight above each opening for a window or door). Install the window and door casings, securing them to framing posts or to plastered walls outfitted with staves.

9. Apply breathable paints. Look for mineral silicate paint that is free of artificial resins, petroleum solvents and biocides (poisons) but is weather and UV resistant. Applying breathable paints is no different than applying conventional paints, although you need to follow manufacturer guidance as products do vary somewhat. To prepare for painting, make sure that the walls are sound, clean, dry, and free of oils.

The exterior should be painted with breathable paint so that moisture can escape the walls. Paints are rated in Sd values: Paints with high Sd values have are detrimental to the underlying surface, as they do not allow it to breathe and dry out. Most non breathable paints will not disclose an Sd value as they can be much higher than 3. Paints with an Sd value less than 0.1 offer adequate breathability for most straw bale/plaster applications.



Question : Will a straw house be warm enough for New Brunswick, Canada?

Answer : A good straw bale home is significantly warmer than conventional building methods, because a well-packed bale is rated at R30 - R35 minimum, or considerably more. Today, insulated homes usually have R-20 in the walls, and many old homes have R-14 for insulation or considerably less. The earliest mobile homes had R-8 or less.

Question : Is it safe for South African (Cape Town) weather?

Answer : Use the straw as a insulator. On the outside have either wood or brick, since the rain will cause the straw to rot.



Tips.

The popularity of straw bale construction is growing in the US. Search online, typing in "Appendix M Straw-Bale Structures" for some more detailed info, from US standards.

A 23-inch-thick straw-bale wall has an R-value of about R-33. And, since virtually all straw-bale walls are plastered on both sides, these walls are relatively airtight.

There are many articles online about designing straw bale building, construction, and techniques that you will enjoy and should find useful. You can sign up for a "Free Straw Bale E-Course". Watch "Introductory Straw Bale Video" and read FAQs. Visit various straw bale photo galleries.

Merrily throwing clay onto the bale walls seems like so much fun, you may want to build a starter house to vent your feelings about the housing market prices and collapse thing.

Warnings.

Make sure you follow health and safety guidelines and regulations to avoid hurting yourself, helpers or children, etc..

Always make sure to choose a location with the materials (where clay and willow stems are available) and where such building is legal.

This knowledge is not definitive, it is just here as guidance; always get a second opinion.

Always consult a structural engineer where building permits are required, before building anything. Hay bale construction is often permitted in rural areas, but not in the usual towns and cities.

Permits: Get the relevant planning and the required building permits.

Things You'll Need.

Enough straw bales.

Foundations materials, wooden floor (option).

Lumber timbers, interior wall boards.

Nails, screws, bolts.

Willow staves (or other stakes and bendable pipe).

Roofing materials.

Lime plaster, (clay "mud" optional where desired and permitted).

Mineral silicate paint (no artificial resins, no petroleum solvents, no biocides (poisons) but is weather and UV resistant).

Tools: digging tools for foundation footings, to sharpen the staves; a saw to cut timbers to length, a bow saw for trimming bails; a mallet and hammer, plastering tools


Februari 20, 2020


How to Make a Bamboo Wind Chime.

Wind chimes, a decorative piece that can liven up your home, can be made from a variety of materials such as ceramic pieces and metal tubing. If you are going for a natural look and mellow tone, bamboo is an excellent material to use. You can make a simple project out of creating your own bamboo wind chime by following the steps below.

Method 1 Making a Bamboo Wind Chime.

1. Find some bamboo. If you are lucky, bamboo may already be growing wild in your area, and it is simply a matter of obtaining permission and cutting the bamboo plant to a proper size. If there is no local source, you may be able to purchase a common bamboo pole, used for fishing. You can also often find bamboo poles of varying sizes at garden supply stores.

Make sure your bamboo is thoroughly seasoned and is not split or rotten.

2. Cut the bamboo into six lengths. Each length should be composed of two of the plant's "sections", with one end above the partition-like segment end, and the other below it, so you have an open tube to work with.

3. Split the hollow end of each piece. This can be done with a very sharp knife, but care must be used, since both the splinters from the bamboo and the knife can impale or cut you. If you have a vice, it might be easier (and less risky) to fix the bamboo in the vice and cut it with a saw, especially if it is quite tough. Taper the last inch (2.5cm) or so off at an angle.

4. Drill 1/8 inch (3mm) holes just above the section on the solid end of each piece, parallel to the cut you made on the opposite end. This will ensure the hollow, concave bamboo "channel" will be facing out on each tube when they are assembled.

5. Cut a round piece of plywood or other material about 7 times the diameter of the average piece of bamboo. In the photos, each piece was about 1 inch in diameter, so the plywood disk is 7 inches (~18cm).

6. Lay out the disk into 6 equal spaces around the circumference, then drill a 1/8 inch (3mm) hole about 3/4 inch (~2cm) on either side of the layout marks, near the edge of the disk.

7. Thread a piece of string through one of the holes, and tie off one end. The string should be about 48 inches (1.2m) long to begin with; any surplus can be cut off after each tube is tied in place. Heavyweight fishing line can be used for hanging the tubes, as in the photos, but a more flexible string will give better results.

8. Thread your string through the holes in the end of one bamboo section, then back through the hole in the plywood on the other side of your layout mark. Continue doing this until each bamboo is hanging under the plywood disk, then tie off the end of your line.

9. Adjust the individual sticks so that each one is staggered higher or lower than the adjacent one. This is what changes the tone of each bamboo, so you can experiment here until you obtain a pleasant sound with the tonal variation you desire.

10. Drill three holes about 1 1/2 inches (3.8cm) from the center of your plywood disk, equally spaced around it. Measure and cut three equal lengths of string, about 30 inches (0.75m) long, and tie them together on one end, allowing a small loop to be formed.

11. Thread one string through each hole in the plywood, snug them slightly, and while holding the disk level, drop some hot-melt glue on each to secure it in place.

12. Cut a smaller disk of your plywood, about 1 1/2 times the diameter of your bamboo pieces smaller than your first (top) disk. Drill three 1/8 inch (3mm) holes spaced equally about the center of this disk, about 3/4 to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) from the center. Thread the loose ends of your three center strings through these holes, allowing it to hang about 1/4 of the distance down from the top of the bamboo sticks.

13. Secure these strings to the plywood, using hot-melt glue again, keeping this smaller disk level also. This disk will be the "hammer", the striker that produces the sound of your chimes.

14. Cut a shape of plywood or other material to hang below the hammer, or lower disk, and tie it on the end of your three strings. This will catch the wind, causing the hammer to strike the bamboo tubes as the wind makes it sway back and forth. One with a larger area will move more in a lighter breeze. Feel free to experiment with different materials in different sizes and weights.

15. Secure any loose ends of strings, gluing everything with an extra bit of hot-melt glue so nothing comes untied while your chime blows in the breeze. Sand and varnish, or paint your chimes if you like.

16. Finished.

Tips

Similar steps can be used with any hollow material, such as PVC tubing or metal pipe.

Cutting different diameter tubes, or different lengths, will produce different sounds. Generally speaking, larger tubes produce deeper tones.

Warnings

Some neighbors really, really, do not like the sound of wind chimes. Be considerate where the wind chime is placed.

Sharp knives are used in this project, and can harm you. Be sure to use carefully.

Splinters from bamboo pieces may hurt or impale you as well.[4] Take caution when cutting, and use protection for your eyes and hands, such as safety goggles and gloves, if necessary.

Things You'll Need

Bamboo

1/4 inch (.6cm) thick plywood, about 2 square feet (30.5 sq cm) in length

String

Drill and saw

Hot-melt glue gun and glue

Optional - Paint or stain sealant for the plywood disk(s)


Desember 13, 2019


How to Downsize Your Home.


Moving to a smaller place? Over time, we tend to accumulate stuff - lots of stuff. We have drawers full of stuff, gifts that we have never used (and never will), furniture we don’t really need but keep “just in case” and items that we’ve had for years may be difficult to part with due to nothing more than familiarity while serving no functional purpose.

Now is the time to get rid of excess baggage (literally!) and pare down to the essentials.



Steps.

1. Assess your actual needs. Someday, you may take up exercising, but the treadmill/Stairmaster/Bowflex has been gathering dust for some time. Wouldn’t a good pair of walking/running shoes be more useful and take up significantly less space? Does anyone actually sit in the chair in the corner? How often do you eat at the table? When was the last time you used your stereo? Deciding what you really need requires a good long look at how you live your life daily and prioritizing the activities and items that are already a part of your actual lifestyle--not those activities or items that you want to be part of your lifestyle, but haven't gotten around to yet.

Take a walk through your house or apartment and evaluate everything you come across (furniture, books, food, etc.). Ask yourself if you've used it in the past year and, if so, how often? Be honest with yourself. If you think you could live well without it, out the door it should go. Make a note of it.

Consider that most of the stuff people keep without using is a tribute to an unmet goal. The most common example is probably exercise machines that we always say we'll use, but don't. Then there are those books we intend to read, that table we eventually want to have dinners and brunches on, etc. We keep things around "just in case", or hoping that their presence will eventually encourage us to use them. But let's be realistic, if seeing that treadmill get a coating of dust hasn't inspired you yet, what makes you think it ever will? Make room for the things you'll actually use.

For stuff that you really have a hard time getting rid of, make this agreement with yourself: Put the items in storage. If you don't need or use them within 6 months, give, sell or throw them away.

2. Go through your home, every cabinet, shelf and closet should be cleared. Only put back the things you couldn't live well without. That means that if you use a whisk every other day it stays but the melon-baller when you don't even like melon... Out it goes. Put these items in boxes, crates or bags in a garage or other storage area

3. Measure your furniture. You will need to know how your furniture will (or won’t) fit into your new space - particularly large items such as your sofa and your bed - so measure everything.

You will also need to get the room measurements of your new space. Ask if you can take measurements or if there is a floor plan available to you. Don’t forget about the location of doors and windows as this will be a factor in furniture placement. Once you have these measurements, make a floor plan using your furniture’s measurements. Try using Better Homes and Gardens’ Arrange-A-Room online software to simplify the process (requires registration but is free). This will give you a much better idea on what you can keep and what will have to go.

4. Assess your new storage areas. How many times have you moved into a new place only to realize - too late - that you have overestimated the amount of storage space? While you’re getting room measurements, make sure to properly assess the storage situation you’ll be inheriting. Will you have fewer kitchen cupboards? How many closets will you have? If you are moving into an apartment, does it have a storage locker and, if so, what are its dimensions? Assessing exactly how much of the new space is dedicated to storage will give you and idea of the volume of items you need to dispose of before moving in. Don’t forget hidden storage areas you currently use in your old place. If you place a lot of items above the kitchen cabinets in your current home, for example, find out if the cupboards in the new place have storage in that area as well.

5. Ransack your old storage areas. Go through your storage areas first (attics, basements, closets, etc). You will be surprised to find out what you’ve put away instead of gotten rid of. If you’re like most of us, you will find boxes of items that haven’t seen the light of day for years and there’s a reason for this: you don’t need them. Get rid of them at once. Hesitation will only melt your resolve.

Don’t forget to go through your bathroom cabinets, kitchen and “junk” drawers. We have a tendency to accumulate unnecessary items in these places. Get rid of empty bottles, balls of twine, expired medicines and beauty products, and your collection of plastic margarine containers. Be brutal.

How you dispose of these unnecessary items will depend on how much energy and/or time you have. The easiest thing to do is to load them up on a truck and drop them off at the nearest thrift shop.

Join a Freecycle group to give stuff away (www.freecycle.org)

If you live in an apartment building or townhouse complex, notice boards and drop off areas for giving unwanted items to neighbours is sometimes provided.

Call up your friends and relatives and see what they need. You may be able to enlist their help in the move for a promised dresser/bed/armchair!

6. Sell your stuff. If you’re in need of a pre-move windfall, try these.

For a large number of items, have a yard sale (or a series of yard sales), or if you have a lot to sell quickly, consider a service to take care of it for you (e.g., Google liquidation estate content sales).

If you have time before the move, utilize sites such as Craigslist and eBay to sell off the best stuff. You’ll likely get more money for your items this way but it is more time consuming.

Craigslist is a good avenue for selling larger items such as furniture, appliances and home décor items to people living in your area. If you have the means, offering delivery will often produce quicker sales.

eBay is a good venue for selling collectible items such as old albums, comic books, and figurines. Make sure to take good quality photos of the items and offer good descriptions. Remember that you are a salesperson. Sell those products!

Used designer clothing can be resold in consignment shops. These stores can be found in your local business directory. Be sure to shop around. Some stores offer better rates than others.

7. Get organized. Before you move into your new place, it’s a good time to work out some storage solutions for your stored items. You can do this as you pack. Place your storage items in decorative storage boxes that can be moved and placed in the new storage areas without much effort. Plastic bins are great for moving and storing, come in many sizes, are stackable, and the see-through ones make finding what you need a snap. The measurements taken of the new storage areas will ensure a good fit. Come moving day, these boxes will be much easier to deal with.

Label everything by room. Don’t think that you will remember big television box is actually full of pots and pans. You won’t.

8. Move large items first. Move your furniture into your new home first. You will have the most energy for this task at the beginning of the move and it will also give you a better indication of where the smaller things will go. Do not merely fill a room with furniture with the idea of sorting it all out later. There is nothing worse than trying to navigate through small rooms littered with boxes and stacks of furniture after a day of moving.Place furniture in the rooms as you go, according to the plan you made earlier. If you have done your homework correctly, your big items should fit in nicely and already give you a sense of home (and a place to sit while taking a break from all of your hard work!)

9. Put away storage items. Contained items that are meant for storage can be placed directly in their allotted spaces where they will be out of the way. By putting these things away as you move in, you’ll be saving yourself the stress of trying to maneuver through tiny, packed rooms during the next few days.

10. Organize boxed items. Your labeled boxes can now be put into their respective rooms and the unpacking can begin. Begin with the bathroom, as that is the room most likely to be needed immediately. If you have only kept the basics, unpacking this room will be a breeze.

11. Organize your space as you unpack. Utilize closet and cupboard storage solutions as you unpack. This way, more can be stored in these tight spaces and you will be setting a precedent for how your new, smaller space will be used. Don’t fall back into lazy habits or your downsized place will get you down.

12. Relax and enjoy! You have now entered the realm of living small. You no longer have to worry about the financial burden or time draining tasks of maintaining a home too big for your needs and you have simplified your life by surrounding yourself with only those things that are most important to you. Rejoice!



Question : I need to hire a helper to do my bending and lifting as I sort through my stuff. I have young friends. How much an hour should I pay?

Answer : $10 to 15.00 per hour is good if you don't plan on feeding them. That said, depending on how good of friends they are, you can give them a flat $20, $40 or $60 dollars for the day, depending on how long you have them work.

Question : My mother is moving to assisted living. I'm thinking of hiring a professional downsizer. How much should I expect to spend for someone to manage all of the above?

Answer : Hiring a professional to oversee a move may cost $2,000-$5,000 depending on the size of her home and the size of her assisted living space. If she is a hoarder, triple or quadruple the estimate.

Question : How do I get rid of knick knacks that have been in my family for years without breaking my heart?

Answer : Donate them to charities and tell yourself that they can give joy to others. You are blessing other people by giving up what you no longer need.

Question : With my husbands health I am doing everything and still working full time. I could use someone to come in and help clean good, than keep up with it until I retire. Is there such a person?

Answer : Yes, you could hire a maid or a part-time student to help. You could also ask your neighbors, in-laws, friends or someone else you trust to help you out. There are lots of resources.

Question : I'm trying to start downsizing. How do I start?

Answer : Choose a room and start sorting, determining which items to keep and which to discard.



Tips.

If you find yourself in economic straits, downsize as quickly as possible. The longer you try to hang on to a lifestyle you can no longer support, the deeper the pit you’ll be digging. Take your cue from business strategy - restructure.

Once you're in your new small space, enact a rule to keep your stuff from accumulating: Every time something comes in, something has to go. The item(s) you get rid of should be about the same size as the one you brought in.

Use your computer to replace other electronics taking up space, for example, Do you really need a DVD player, CD player, and a DVR, When you have a computer with a DVD-RW drive. (Plays and records DVDs/CDs.)

Make use of "negative space", especially with small and sentimental things. For example, fill Grandma's old vase with the sea-shells you collected together (rather than in a box somewhere). Store Dad's casino-chip collection in his favorite beer-stein. Fill an heirloom milk-can with Ziploc bags full of pictures that you haven't decided what to do with. De-cluttering is important, but so is being efficient with the stuff that you DO keep!

Avoid adding storage space. The more storage space, the more you are likely to clutter. In fact, attempt to minimize storage space.

Warnings.

Do not flush or throw into the trash any expired/unwanted medicines. They will contaminate the water supply. Any drugstore will dispose of these items responsibly, free of charge. You can also see if your city has a hazardous waste disposal facility.

Don't throw away anything valuable, If something might be worth a good amount of money, sell it.


Februari 23, 2020


How to Make a Small Space Divider.

Room dividers can be a stylish and effective way of making the best use of a room, office, hall or other area in need of division. Small, impermanent dividers can be made easily by the novice DIYer, using objects that are easily obtainable. Choose one of the suggested methods below for an easy and very cheap way to create a unique space divider for your home, made by you.

Method 1 Trellis divider.

This project is very simple and only needs about 30 minutes to complete.

1. Purchase a section of wooden trellis. It should be of a decent height (tall enough for it to make a break in vision, and if possible, higher than the average person).

2. Cut the wooden wall trellis into three equal pieces, vertically. These pieces will be joined together again in a way that allows them to be bent or folded.

3. Reattach the pieces to form the divider. Tie the first piece with the second piece, then tie the second piece with the third, using wire or rope.

4. Weave dried plant parts, one beside other, through the frame squares. Add more of this material until the plants completely cover the trellis.

The dried plant parts are best when they are of the same height (or longer) as the divider you are going to make.

Live plant vines could also be used but they're trickier and you will need to place the container growing the plant down in its final place before weaving. Moreover, moving the divider is much harder when you do this, so it's best for a more "permanent" divider, such as for an office.

Instead of dried plant parts, you can use artificial floral items, such as long leaves, etc.

5. Put the divider up where you need it. Angle the three partitions so that the divider stands in place unaided. Plant containers or similar weighted objects can be used to prevent the divider from falling over if accidentally knocked.

Things You'll Need.

A square wooden wall trellis, Saw or Jigsaw, Binding wire or rope, Wire cutter or scissors, Various dried plant parts,

Method 2 Shower curtain divider.

This easy divider has the benefit of easy pulling back when you need to space to be opened up again quickly.

1. Choose a shower curtain with a design you think is perfect for the space to be divided. If the area to be divided is longer than one curtain, choose another one or two in the same design.

If the design is stripes, spots or some other pattern, you might consider varying the colors, as long as they match nicely.

2. Hang up a line of strong wire across the area to be divided. Hang this either at ceiling height or above the area of a tall person walking through.

You may also like to attach a curtain tieback hook on a wall or area for ease of pulling the curtain back to one side if needed. This step is optional.

4. Hang the shower curtain across the wire. Pull the hung curtain across to create the divider.

Things You'll Need.

Shower curtain(s), Shower curtain hooks, Strong, thin wire, Hanging fittings, Screwdriver, hammer, Curtain tieback hook (optional).

Method 3 Vinyl records divider.

This is a rather funky room or space divider, perfect for a longer-term decorative space divider in a more modern style of home.

1. Find a bundle of old, unwanted vinyl records. The "unwanted" is an important part! Each record should be the same size, unless you're planning on deliberately using a big-small-big, etc. pattern. That's up to you.

The amount of records you'll need depends on how much space you are trying to cover. If you are hanging them from the ceiling to say, sofa level, count on about eight records of large size for the vertical drop, then as many of these rows of eight as you need to cover the space to be divided. This could be a lot of records, so visit the local thrift store if you haven't got that many stashed away.

2. Select a color of contact paper that suits your room or area. Contact paper is the best way to cover the records and make them all the same color.

Prints are also possible but bear in mind that your room decor must be matched nicely.

3. Measure a round section of contact paper over a record. This forms your template piece for records of that size. Use this to make as many circles as needed for the amount of records (one piece each side).

4. Carefully peel off the backing of the contact paper and apply to each side of the first record. Smooth out all bubbles and wrinkles so that the contact paper sits perfectly flat. Meet the edges of each side of each circle with care. Repeat for all records.

5. Use a long piece of thick wire, such as from a wire coat hanger, to make holes. Mark four holes at even quarter spaces around the edges of the record circle. Heat the wire at one end over a stovetop and use the hot end to piece holes through the marked spots.

Hold the wire with strong gloves, such as gardening gloves, in case it heats too much.

Repeat for each record.

6. Join the divider together. Use medium gauge wire to make ring joins between the holes, closing the wire with pliers. Cut the same lengths of wire for the entire project, although you may wish to make large rings for the top level rings, depending on the hook requirements from the hanging points.

Make rows first, according to the measurement needed for your space.

Then join the rows to form the entire hanging divider.

Ensure that the top row has rings too, so that it can be hung from the ceiling, beam or other area, with ease.

7. Hang the divider. Use planter hooks from the ceiling over the area in need of the divider, either with a piece of chain to add length or directly hang the divider straight from the hooks. It is important to have at least one helper to do this part, as hanging can be tricky.

8. Done. You now have an amazing, funky divider for your room or area.

Things You'll Need.

Vinyl records, in sizes preferred, as many as needed for length and width of area.

Pencil or other marker for measuring the record size onto the contact paper.

Scissors for contact paper circles, Medium gauge wire for making rings.

Tin snips or similar for cutting ring lengths, Contact paper in color of choice.

Pliers, Wire for making holes, or a coat hanger, A helper for hanging the divider.

Tips.

For the first method project, choose any size of wall trellis you think is appropriate for your project, as long as it covers what you want covered.

Warnings.

In method 1, instead of binding the pieces with wire or rope, you might consider trying to nail or screw hinges; however if the quality of the wood is poor, these will not work well, if at all.

Take care when burning holes into the vinyl records; wear gloves to protect your hands and keep your distance from the heat. Keep children and pets out of the way while working with the stove top in this project.


November 29, 2019




How to Clean Mirrors Without Streaks.



Cleaning your mirrors can be a very satisfying household chore. However, it can be really challenging to clean mirrors without leaving behind streaks from the cleaning process. To clean your mirrors without leaving behind streaks, it is important to use the right cleaning solution and materials. Once you have an appropriate cleaning solution and a flat weave microfiber cloth, it is just a matter of learning the technique for wiping down mirrors.







Method 1 Mixing Your Cleaning Solution.





1. Mix equal parts vinegar and water. In a spray bottle, add one cup of vinegar. Then, add a cup of water. Close and shake the spray bottle to mix the perfect mirror cleaning solution.



2. Make a homemade glass cleaner. Although equal parts vinegar and water will work for most mirrors, sometimes you want a solution that is a bit more powerful. In this case, you can make your own glass cleaner in a clean container and then fill up a clean spray bottle. Mix the following ingredients for a powerful cleaning solution:

A quarter cup of white vinegar. If you don’t have any, you can also use apple cider vinegar.

A quarter cup of rubbing alcohol.

One tablespoon of cornstarch, which helps reduce streaking.

Eight to ten drops of essential oil, such as lemon, orange or lavender.



3. Use dish detergent, lemon juice and vinegar. Another powerful, homemade cleaning solution involves mixing dish detergent with lemon juice, which helps to deodorize, and vinegar. Be careful not to put too much dish detergent into this solution, since it could cause streaks if used excessively. In a bucket of warm water, add the following ingredients.

One to two teaspoons of dish detergent.

Four tablespoons of lemon juice.

Half a cup of white vinegar. If you don’t have it, you can use ammonia.



4. Avoid store-bought cleaners. Although there are many brands of commercial window cleaner, they tend to include excessive amounts of soap, which will cause streaking. As such, you are better off using either an equal part mixture of vinegar and water or a homemade cleaning solution.







Method 2 Getting Rid of Gunk.



1. Scan the mirror for stains. If it is a bathroom mirror, you may see a lot of toothpaste, hairspray and other stains from cosmetics. If it is a hallway mirror, there could be a lot of dust or dirt that has accumulated in certain areas. Take note of all the stains, since you will need to remove them first in order to avoid streaking.



2. Apply rubbing alcohol to a cotton pad. Place the cotton pad on the top of the bottle of rubbing alcohol. Briefly, turn the bottle upside down to soak the pad in rubbing alcohol.

If you don’t have any rubbing alcohol, you should be able to find it at your local drug store.



3. Remove the stains with the cotton pad. Dab each of the stains on your mirror with the alcohol soaked cotton pad. Continue scrubbing until you get each of the stains removed. Then, use a clean cotton pad to remove any remaining alcohol or grime from the mirror.

Rubbing alcohol dries quickly, so you will need to work very efficiently.



4. Use a toothbrush to clean the corners. If there is a lot of grime or dirt accumulated in the corners of the mirror, you can use a toothbrush to clean these areas. Moisten the toothbrush with rubbing alcohol and then scrub the corners.







Method 3. Wiping Down the Mirrors.



1. Mist the mirror with the cleaning solution. Using your vinegar-based or homemade cleaning solution, mist the entire surface of the mirror.

Avoid soaking the mirror which will add to the time for this job.



2. Use a microfiber cloth to wipe down the mirror. You will need a flat weave microfiber cloth to wipe down the mirror. Start by folding it into quarters, so you can economize on the number of cloths you use. When one section gets dirty, simply open up the microfiber cloth to find a clean section.

Terry cloths have too much texture, so they tend to accumulate grime and contribute to streaking.

Avoid using paper towels since they will leave little bits of lint on your mirror.

Newspapers are a traditional option but should be avoided because they will cause streaks and may leave ink on your mirror.



3. Use a squeegee to wipe down your mirror. If you own a squeegee, it is a great tool for cleaning your mirrors. After each wipe of your squeegie, you should use a microfiber cloth to wipe away any drips.



4. Wipe down your mirror, from top to bottom. Using your squeegie or microfiber cloth, start in the top left corner and wipe down your mirror, working your way down in a zig zag pattern. You are wiping the mirror in the shape of the letter ‘S’, which helps avoid any streaking.



5. Remove any remaining marks on the mirror. Take a look at the whole mirror to see if there are any remaining marks. You may want to shift to the left or to the right to get a better perspective on the mirror. If you see a streak or stain, apply a bit more cleaning solution to your microfiber cloth and quickly wipe it away.



Things You’ll Need

Microfiber cloth

Squeegee

Old toothbrush

Cotton pad

Rubbing alcohol

Vinegar

Dish detergent

Lemon juice

Essential oils, such as lavender

Spray bottle

Bucket
November 22, 2019