how to decorate ganesh murti at home

How to Decorate Ganesh Murti at Home.

Ganesh Chaturthi is a festival that honors the Hindu deity Ganesh. Each year, at the culmination of the festival, Ganesh murti, or idols, are immersed and dissolved in water. To make your own murti, sculpt a natural clay, such as terracotta, into the form of Ganesh. Create a makhar, or a throne, for the idol, then adorn it with craft jewels, flowers, colorful fabric, and candles. Throughout your home, celebrate Ganesh Chaturthi with decorations such as diyas, strings of lights, and beautiful door hangings.

Method 1 Making Your Own Ganesh Murti.

1. Sculpt the murti with natural, biodegradable clay. Immersing murti in water sends Ganesh, who has resided in the idol to listen to your prayers, back to his heavenly abode. Terracotta clay and other natural choices will dissolve during the immersion ritual. Not only is this consistent with the ritual’s spiritual meaning, it’s better for the environment.

During Ganesh Chaturthi, hundreds of thousands of idols may be immersed in a single city. Idols made of materials that don't dissolve, such as plaster of Paris, pollute the bodies of water in which they’re immersed. In some areas, laws require Ganesh murti to be made of natural clay.

Furthermore, undissolved idols are often removed from bodies of water, gathered into piles, and destroyed, which disrespects Ganesh.

2. Roll out 3 large balls of clay for the body, base, and head. Make the balls roughly the same size between 1/3 and 1/2 of the height you want the idol to be. For instance, if you want a 9 in (23 cm) idol, make each large ball about 3 to 4 in (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in diameter. Squish the first ball between your palms to make a flat, 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) thick circular base, then blend the bottom of the ball for the body onto the base.

After smoothing the ball for the body into the base, attach the ball for the head onto the body. At this point, it should look a bit like a snowman sitting on a flat circle, with the joints between the clay balls blended together.

Dab your fingers in a small cup of water to moisten the clay and make it more pliable.

If you have trouble keeping the sculpture stable, insert a toothpick halfway into the top of the ball for the body. Then place the ball for the head onto the body; the other half of the toothpick goes into the head. The toothpick acts like a frame and holds the 2 balls of clay together.

3. Make 2 long cylinders for the legs. Roll 2 pieces of clay into 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) long tubes with diameters of about 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm). Then attach 1 end of each tube to the rear and bottom of the body to form the legs. Bend the legs so they curl around the front of the body in a sitting position, then smooth 1 end of each leg to the back of body to form the hip joints.

Remember that toothpicks or small sticks can help you attach the body parts to each other if you have trouble keeping the idol stable.

4. Attach the arms and the trunk to the idol. Make 2 more 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) tubes with 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) diameters. Attach 1 end of each one to the top of the body to make the arms. Roll a final 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) tube with a diameter of about 1 in (2.5 cm), and blend it into the front of the head for the trunk.

With wet fingertips, smooth each of these joints. Blend the arms where they meet the body to make shoulders, and smooth the clay all around where the trunk meets the face.

Pinch the ends of the arms to slightly flatten them into hands. Bend one arm upward at the elbow and wrist so the palm faces forward to represent a mudra, or a symbolic hand gesture. Position the other arm so its palm faces up.

5. Sculpt an object associated with Ganesh for your murti to hold. Make a ball of clay about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) in diameter. Mold it into a symbolic object associated with Ganesh, such as rope or uneaten sweets, and place it in the upward facing palm. To make a rope, simply roll the small ball of clay into a long, thin cylinder. Next, curl it into a loop and place it on Ganesh's palm.

Make uneaten sweets by dividing the clay ball into 3 or 4 smaller balls, then place them in the upward facing palm.

6. Blend the ears onto the head. Make 2 balls about 1 in (2.5 cm) across, then squish each one between your palms to make smooth, flat ears about 2 in (5.1 cm) and 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) thick.

Place the ears on the sides of the head, then blend the joints between the ears and the head.

7. Add the tusks and a crown. Place 2 small tusks on either side of the trunk, then make a crown by stacking 2 or 3 clay cylinders about 2 in (5.1 cm) in diameter and 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick on top of the head.

Ganesh has a broken tusk, so make one about 1 in (2.5 cm) long and the other about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) in length. Both tusks should be tubes about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) thick, and the longer one should taper to a point.

Get creative and make small balls and other shapes to adorn the crown with jewels.

8. Draw eyes and markings with a toothpick and safety pin. With the point of the toothpick, draw small eyes above and on either side of the trunk. Then add the Aum symbol to the forehead with the pin. Even with the pin, it might be tough to draw the symbol so small, but just do your best.

You can also make lines to add details to the crown, ears, belly, and other body parts. Visualize Ganesh or look at an image, and fine tune the murti until you’re happy with your representation of the deity.

The idol will be immersed and dissolved in water, so there’s no need to bake it or otherwise set it.

9. Use vegetable-based pigments if you choose to paint the murti. Painting the murti is optional; many people now prefer the natural look of an unpainted clay idol. If you do paint it, go for natural, vegetable-based paints instead of metallic or chemical-based products.

Vermilion, which is a deep red, would be a good color choice. It's associated with Ganesh and religious festivals.

Vegetable-based paints are eco-friendly and won’t harm the body of water in which you immerse the murti. In some areas, idols are required to be unpainted or colored with non-toxic pigments. Search online for your city's government website to check your local ordinances, or look for newspaper articles on regulations related to Ganesh Chaturthi.

Things You’ll Need : Terracotta clay, Toothpicks, Small cup of water, Sculpting blade (optional), Vegetable-based paints (optional), Paintbrush (optional).

Method 2 Creating a Ganpati Makhar.

1. Cut out a cardboard circle that’s larger than the murti. Trace a circular object, like a plate, over the cardboard as a guide. Just make sure it’s large enough to be a suitable backdrop for the murti. Cut out the circle using scissors or a utility knife.

The circle will be a backdrop, so it needs to be bigger than the murti. For instance, if your idol is 8 in (20 cm) tall, make the circle at least 10 to 12 in (25 to 30 cm) in diameter.

If you’d like, decorate the circle’s perimeter with small scallop shapes, triangles, circles, or any design you find pleasing. Use your imagination! Cut designs directly into the circle’s edge or cut out shapes and glue them around it.

2. Create a base by cutting designs into a cardboard box. Choose a cardboard box that’s at least 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wider than the idol's base; a shoe box would probably work well. To add visual interest, cut decorative arches, triangles, or other designs into the bottoms of each side. Again, get creative and come up with designs that you find beautiful!

If you're using a box without a lid, cut a piece of cardboard to fit the opening, then paste it over the top. This part of the makhar is the base or platform upon which Ganesh will sit.

3. Paint the circle and base or cover them with colorful paper. Choose vibrant paints or construction paper to color the makhar. Sky blue or pale turquoise would work well for the circle and top of the base, as the murti would stand out well against a light color. Ganesh enjoys the color red, so that’s a good choice for borders and other details.

If you’re using construction paper, cut the paper to fit the circle and the base’s sides and top. Use a glue stick to attach the paper to the cardboard.

If you’re painting the cardboard, allow it to dry for 6 to 8 hours before decorating it with craft jewels and beads.

You won't be immersing the makhar in a body of water, so it's okay if you use paints and other craft items that aren't biodegradable.

4. Glue beads and craft jewels to the cardboard. Using a hot glue gun, place large, colorful jewels around the edge of the circle and perimeter of the base. Create patterns around the larger jewels with rhinestones and other smaller ones. Then glue jewels and chains of beads around the platform’s edges to create a decorative border.

Leave most of the circular backdrop blank; just make a jeweled border about 1 in (2.5 cm) thick around the circle’s perimeter. If you’d like, glue a few beads or rhinestones to the backdrop here and there to make stars.

5. Attach the circle to the base and stabilize the joint with cardboard. Cut a rectangular piece of cardboard about 4 to 5 in (10 to 13 cm) long to secure the circle to the platform. Hold the bottom edge of the circle on one side of the platform. Then place the cardboard rectangle on the back of the makhar so it overlaps the joint where the circle and base meet. Once you’ve lined up the pieces, glue them together with the hot glue gun.

Hold the circle to the base for 2 to 3 minutes to allow the hot glue to set. Give it 30 to 60 minutes to completely dry.

Since it’s on the back of the makhar, the cardboard piece that holds the circle to the base won’t be visible. Although it won’t be seen, you can still paint it or cover it with colorful paper if you’d like.

Things You’ll Need : Cardboard box, Utility knife or scissors, Hot glue gun, Craft jewelry, Craft beads, Paint (optional), Paintbrush (optional), Construction paper (optional).

Method 3 Decorating Your Home.

1. Hang colorful dupattas around the makhar. Use thumbtacks to secure the dupattas, or colorful scarves, to the wall behind the makhar. After hanging the dupattas, place a small table in front of the wall, and set the makhar on the table.

If you don’t have dupattas, use lengths of any colorful fabric.

Place the murti on the makhar after you’ve set the table in place.

2. Adorn Ganesh and the makhar with flowers. Scatter flowers on the table around the makhar, and place vases with flowers on either side. Weave together a small garland of flower, ribbon, or paper, then place it around Ganesh’s neck.

Remember that Ganesh is fond of the color red; red hibiscus flowers are often used to adorn Ganesh idols. Erukku flowers and banana leaves are also associated with Ganesh.[20]

3. Place diyas, candles, and strings of lights around your home. Diyas are oil lamps that are lit during puja (prayer) and are typically made of brass. Place a diya by the makhar, and light it before you perform puja to Ganesh. No Hindu festival is complete without light, so decorate your entire home with candles and strings of LED lights to celebrate Ganesh Chaturthi.

Your decorations can be as ornate as your budget and time allow. If you’d like, simply place diyas and votive candles around your home. You can also go all out and run strings of light all around doorways and the edges where walls meet the ceiling.

4. Welcome family and friends with vibrant door hangings. Purchase store-bought beaded door hangings, or make your own. You could tie and hang long strands of beads from the craft store, or string together ribbons, flowers, and lights. Hang your decorations on your entrance and, if you'd like, on doors throughout your home.

Use thumbtacks or small nails to attach your door hangings to the top of the door or jamb.

Wind chimes could also make an interesting addition to your door hangings.

Tips.

Remember the murti is part of a spiritual ritual. You should show reverence and contemplate Ganesh while making the idol.

While making your own murti is an act of devotion, you can also purchase store-bought idols and thrones. Keep in mind it's best to choose eco-friendly options.

Warnings.

Be careful when using sharp blades or a hot glue gun. Do not touch the tip of the glue gun while it’s hot. Allow it to cool completely before putting it away.

Avoid leaving lit candles or diyas unattended.

Januari 13, 2020

How to Use Macrame in Home Decor.

How to Use Macrame in Home Decor.

Macrame, or the art of knotting lengths of cord into elaborate patterns, enjoys a rich history in household decorating. Its nearly endless variety of configurations makes it perfect for hanging, covering and draping, and it can easily be fashioned to complement the unique size and shape of other items. Whether you’re weaving macrame accessories yourself or just on the lookout for new ideas at the boutique, you have a vast number of options open to you. Here are just a few ways you might incorporate this timeless style into your home.





Hanging Macrame Wall Art.



Mount a macrame tapestry. A tapestry can add an element of hand-spun elegance to any room in your home. Use tapestries to make blank, uninteresting sections of wall more eye-catching. You could even hang one above the headboard of your bed or behind the sofa in the living room to tie the room together.

Attach the tapestry to a wooden dowel (or a slender tree limb, for more of a natural look) to make it easier to hang and keep it from sagging.

Make one-of-a-kind macrame wall art the focal point of your living room wall.





Design a unique dreamcatcher. The classic dreamcatcher is a staple of many homes, and represents peace, restfulness and positivity. Rather than displaying an ordinary dreamcatcher woven from wire, try out a softer approach with the macrame version. The gentle fabric braids will bring you even more of a sense of comfort when you stop to admire it.

Put the finishing touches on your dreamcatcher using beads, feathers and other decorative touches.

Dreamcatchers are one of the simpler projects you can start with if you’re just learning how to macrame.



Make macrame curtains. Replace boring window covers with floor-length macrame drapes. You could choose a dense weave for privacy, or go for a loose fringe to beautify your window space while still admitting a soft glow of light.

You could even rig your macrame curtains up to runners so that you can draw and open them as you please.



Put up a room divider. Hanging room dividers are typically made with noisy beads, but a macrame version can help create privacy without all that irritating clacking. Rather than keeping the doors in your home shut, simply tack the divider to the door frame to make your living space feel more open and inviting.

Tie a couple beads onto the end of each strand to give the cords some weight so that they’ll return to their original position.

Use partitions to cover entryways and create separation between rooms that are close together.







Decorating Furniture with Macrame.



Embellish ordinary lampshades. Take a dusty old lampshade from dull to delightful with a simple macrame cover. These covers can easily be knotted to fit shades of different shapes and sizes, meaning any light in your home can benefit from a custom fit.

Make your own DIY lampshades by knotting the cord around a wire frame that’s been shaped to fit over a lamp or ceiling light.

Incorporate shells, beads or tassels to add complexity to your lampshades.



Weave clever furniture covers. If you’re unhappy with the look of your loveseat or recliner but aren’t in a position to buy a new one, some macrame accents may be just what you need to make you fall in love with your seating situation again. Drape an enchanting pattern over the back of the piece to give it a whole new decorative appeal.

You could even resurface a worn out seat or foot stool with a new handmade finish.



Make your own pillows and blankets. Top your sofa or favorite easy chair with an assortment of throw pillows you designed yourself. Keep a cozy throw blanket or two handy for when you have company. Choose a softer fabric for your furniture accessories to ensure optimum comfort.

You can use ordinary macrame cord for these projects or draw on recycled materials, like old t-shirts.

Create themed sets of blankets and pillows using different knotting patterns and color combinations.



Lay out a macrame table runner. For long or spacious dining tables that look awfully empty, use a knit runner to break up negative space. You can then use the runner as a place to arrange flowers, candles or a centerpiece while leaving the place settings free for serving home cooked meals.

Leave a long fringe on both ends of the table runner for an elegant drape.

Bring out your macrame table runner for springtime events or whenever you need to inject a little brightness and ornamentation into your dining area.





Outline a mirror or portrait. Hide an uninspired frame with a tight macrame wrap. Textile frames provide a pleasant contrast to the focal point of the frame, and they go perfectly in homes decked out with rustic or vintage decor.

Be sure to remove the glass and backing from the frame before trying to tie the cord into place.







Creating Crafty Containers.



Make hanging planters. This bohemian gardening solution is a hit among contemporary interior designers. The macrame weaves are shaped into nets to nestle lightweight planters in, then suspended from the ceiling at various heights. Hanging planters are a wonderful method of presentation for home gardening projects, and can also free up valuable space around your porch or patio.

Hanging macrame containers aren’t just for plants—they can also be useful for tea lights, bird feeders, or even craft art and decorations.

Make sure the cord and knotting style you implement are strong enough to hold objects with a little weight.



Wrap a vase or candle holder. Give plain display pieces some much-needed flair by enveloping them in a web-like exterior. The macrame can cover the entire outside of the piece, or encircle the center in a sleek band. You’ll quickly turn old, outdated items into conversation starters.

Wrap and hang unused glass bottles or mason jars to convert them into minimalistic miniature flower vases.

The same thing can be done for bins, jars, kitchen storage canisters and any number of similarly shaped containers.



Create custom baskets. Fabric construction can make almost anything more charming, including simple storage containers. Wind sturdy cord around a premade basket frame to give it a tight structure, or make the whole thing from scratch. When you’re done, you’ll have a quaint carrier perfect for holding fresh fruit, bath accessories or the daily mail.

Use a firm type of cord that will be able to hold up to frequent handling while retaining its shape.

Include handles to make your baskets easier to tote from place to place.



Tips.

Stock up on cord in different colors and thicknesses to use in macrame projects.

Look for vintage-inspired macrame designs in home goods stores and thrift shops.

Handle macrame items delicately to avoid damaging or unraveling them.

Most finished pieces can be machine washed in warm water, then hung up to dry.

Check online craft resources like Pinterest and Etsy to collect ideas on how to work macrame into your home decor.



Warnings.

Don’t overdo it. While one or two macrame pieces will lend character and break up the uniformity of ordinary furniture and accessories, too much can start to look tacky.

November 12, 2019

how to build a straw bale house

How to Build a Straw Bale House.

Building a straw bale and plaster house is a low-cost and environmentally friendly way to create a home. This guide covers the materials and methods you might use to build a straw bale house, a house that can last hundreds of years, is energy efficient and is cheap to maintain. For simplicity, this article will not include instruction on the installation of services such as natural gas, electricity or water and sewer: It covers only the details about how to build the shell.



Steps.

1. Make a plan. How big? How many rooms? What services do you want? Where are the windows and doors going to go ?

Draw up the floor plan. On your diagram, you should roughly sketch the room layouts and locate the drain lines precisely (for concrete slab) where the shower, bathtub and toilet drain connections will be (wood floors with a crawl space allows easier changes of such locations).

Image titled Build a Straw Bale House Step 1Bullet1

Each section of the exterior wall should be a multiple of the standard bale length you plan to use. This will allow you to minimize the number of bales that you cut and will also minimize waste.

2. Decide what type of base you will use to support the floor of the first story. Typical choices are a concrete pad or a timber base consisting of a double outside band with center beam(s) supported by columns and connected by floor joists on 16" centers. If you opt for the traditional wood frame, check your local building code for the dimensions of each frame element.

3. Prepare the foundation footings to be below the frost line in cold climates, and floor to be level, on an attractive slope or level ground (easier). Check your local building codes for the size and composition of exterior wall foundation. Fresh water plumbing, electrical wiring and natural gas pipes will be added above the slab, under timber floors, in walls or above ceilings.

4. Build a frame of timber or metal. The frame transfers the load of the roof down on to the foundation and should be strong enough for this purpose. You can cut in 1X4 inch bracing "straps" (set in the thickness of the 1X4) into timber outer stud-walls (posts or pillars) diagonally from the corners near the floor into the top plate -- or 2X4 inch diagonal braces nailed or bolted between vertical elements -- to prevent lateral movement within the frame, and the base of each upright timber should be anchored well to the foundation. Cables may be stretched through the bales of the structure, if desired for stability, to share stresses of possible bulging or shifting of bales.

5. Stay dry during construction by putting the roof on before going any further. Put the roof on before adding the wall bales because you don't want your bales to get soaked with rain, snow or ice.

6. Make straw bale walls, not using hay, but using straw. Straw is from harvested grain stalks (never use bales of grass). These need to remain dry, less than 20% moisture content, and tightly bound to prevent moist air (including fog) getting in before plastering. Both factors are important to prevent the rotting of the bales after construction. To build the wall, you start by sharpening some staves (inch thick willow stems) and then securing them vertically in the wood or concrete base (you will need to drill a hole, or perhaps poke them in when the concrete is still wet). Bales should then be further reinforced with "U" shaped willow stems that must be bent while the stems are green (or use another kind of straight staves, and bendable pipe for U shape ones).

Make U shaped staves: Select a one meter willow stave and mark the stave at 33 centimeter (13 in) from each end, take a big hammer and bash the green stave on these marks until the fibers of the wood are mashed, split and softened. These bashed areas are then bendable; bend the stave into U shape and then get to work. Each layer (or course) of bales are stacked up and pinning them until you have reached your desired height, during this process staves of willow should be driven down through alternate bails to fix it to the bail below. The U staves are use to attach between lined up blocks. This is especially important on the top course. When the desired height has been reached some kind of strap can be placed around the entire wall (top to bottom) to add further stability and strength, but not stressed extremely tightly.

7. Plaster the walls. There are many types of soft plaster that can be used, some based on formulations of locally available materials. Choose the best one by balancing availability, cost and effectiveness for your climate. Apply with traditional plastering tools for a smooth finish or with your hands for a rustic finish. Make sure, though to cover every last bit of exposed straw: None should be showing, unplastered. Otherwise fire is more easily started, and dampness or vermin can get in.

8. Put in the windows and doors. You should have left holes for these, bridged with lintels (horizontal headers which support the weight above each opening for a window or door). Install the window and door casings, securing them to framing posts or to plastered walls outfitted with staves.

9. Apply breathable paints. Look for mineral silicate paint that is free of artificial resins, petroleum solvents and biocides (poisons) but is weather and UV resistant. Applying breathable paints is no different than applying conventional paints, although you need to follow manufacturer guidance as products do vary somewhat. To prepare for painting, make sure that the walls are sound, clean, dry, and free of oils.

The exterior should be painted with breathable paint so that moisture can escape the walls. Paints are rated in Sd values: Paints with high Sd values have are detrimental to the underlying surface, as they do not allow it to breathe and dry out. Most non breathable paints will not disclose an Sd value as they can be much higher than 3. Paints with an Sd value less than 0.1 offer adequate breathability for most straw bale/plaster applications.



Question : Will a straw house be warm enough for New Brunswick, Canada?

Answer : A good straw bale home is significantly warmer than conventional building methods, because a well-packed bale is rated at R30 - R35 minimum, or considerably more. Today, insulated homes usually have R-20 in the walls, and many old homes have R-14 for insulation or considerably less. The earliest mobile homes had R-8 or less.

Question : Is it safe for South African (Cape Town) weather?

Answer : Use the straw as a insulator. On the outside have either wood or brick, since the rain will cause the straw to rot.



Tips.

The popularity of straw bale construction is growing in the US. Search online, typing in "Appendix M Straw-Bale Structures" for some more detailed info, from US standards.

A 23-inch-thick straw-bale wall has an R-value of about R-33. And, since virtually all straw-bale walls are plastered on both sides, these walls are relatively airtight.

There are many articles online about designing straw bale building, construction, and techniques that you will enjoy and should find useful. You can sign up for a "Free Straw Bale E-Course". Watch "Introductory Straw Bale Video" and read FAQs. Visit various straw bale photo galleries.

Merrily throwing clay onto the bale walls seems like so much fun, you may want to build a starter house to vent your feelings about the housing market prices and collapse thing.

Warnings.

Make sure you follow health and safety guidelines and regulations to avoid hurting yourself, helpers or children, etc..

Always make sure to choose a location with the materials (where clay and willow stems are available) and where such building is legal.

This knowledge is not definitive, it is just here as guidance; always get a second opinion.

Always consult a structural engineer where building permits are required, before building anything. Hay bale construction is often permitted in rural areas, but not in the usual towns and cities.

Permits: Get the relevant planning and the required building permits.

Things You'll Need.

Enough straw bales.

Foundations materials, wooden floor (option).

Lumber timbers, interior wall boards.

Nails, screws, bolts.

Willow staves (or other stakes and bendable pipe).

Roofing materials.

Lime plaster, (clay "mud" optional where desired and permitted).

Mineral silicate paint (no artificial resins, no petroleum solvents, no biocides (poisons) but is weather and UV resistant).

Tools: digging tools for foundation footings, to sharpen the staves; a saw to cut timbers to length, a bow saw for trimming bails; a mallet and hammer, plastering tools

Februari 20, 2020

how to build an underground house

How to Build an Underground House.

Have you ever wanted to have a house completely hidden from the view of other people? Do you like caves or the deep smell of moist earth? Do you fear the imminent apocalypse? Well, you might want to build an underground house. It will take some time and effort, but if you’re wiling to commit to the project you could have your own underground shelter sooner rather than later.



Method 1 Preparing to Build Your Underground House.

1. Check your zoning laws. You can call your state to check the zoning laws of your property to see if you are allowed to put a new building on your property. You don’t want the state to ruin the fun by fining you for your newly created underground house. Even if you’re underground you're not safe from the law.

2. Get permission from the state to dig. More official business. You need to pre-mark the area on your property that you want to excavate with stakes and white paint. Then you call your state’s Dig Safe branch and describe the area that you plan to dig in. Hopefully they will grant you permission. You definitely have to do this to ensure that you’re not going to dig into a sewage system or something like that.

3. Hire a professional excavator or buy professional equipment. Hiring a professional to do it for you wouldn’t be the worst idea. Depending on the size of your house you probably are going to need to use heavy machinery, and if you have no experience with that hiring a professional is probably the way to go. Search for professional excavators on the internet or contact a local construction company. They should be able to quote you a cost and at the very least offer you some helpful tips. You may be able to negotiate a price to use their equipment if you can prove that you are trained to use it.

4. Find someone willing to help you. This isn’t a solo job even if you really want it to be. When you’re excavating or dealing with heavy materials you need someone to make sure that you are safe. You are going to be dealing with a lot of heavy materials and working in the earth and something could happen at any time. Make sure you have a partner.

5. Find a suitable location. Look for a spot that is outside of your area’s 100-year flood plain and isn't near any steep slopes that might trigger a landslide. A large open space is probably best suited for an underground house, because tree roots can also cause issues during excavation. The odds are that you will be trying to build this house on your own property, so you probably don't have to worry too much but just be aware.

Generally you want to stay away from any large objects like trees, boulders, or multi-story buildings.

You also shouldn't place your house near any concentrations of fuel or any hazardous materials.



Method 2 Designing Your Underground House.

1. Develop detailed structural plans. Work with an architect to design a scaled design and floor plan for your underground house. This plan should be complete with dimensions, details on the potential materials that will be used,

2. Design your house. As you design your house you should consider air and water filtration systems, potential light sources, and food storage space. [3] Draw a model of your house to scale using the structural plans that you already created. Now draw in where all the installed appliances will go first, then the furniture, then anything else you would like to include in your plan. Be aware of the following constraints as well.

If you are going to be underground for very long periods of time you will need to have your water set up to some sort of renewing water source and you will also need a ton of space to keep the food you have fresh. This means many refrigerators and a reliable power generator.

A reliable air circulation and filtration system is also crucial to avoid getting carbon dioxide poisoning or other airborne illnesses.

3. Include an entrance and exit in your design. This can be as simple as a ladder with a hatch on the top or even a tunnel leading up and to the outside. The easiest option is buying a staircase. You can buy a staircase online and have it delivered to your house, so it doesn’t even need to be part of the construction if you don’t want.

If you decide to use a ladder you may need to secure the ladder to the wall with metal supports. Buy U-shaped metal supports at a home improvement store and secure these into your wall over the steps of your ladder. This will keep it stable while you are climbing up and down. You can also buy airtight hatches to secure the top of your entrance. Once again it is important to make sure that your hatch is significantly wider and longer than the hole you wish to cover.



Method 3 Planning the Excavation.

1. Develop a strategy to dig your hole. Remember to dig based on the excavation area that you received permission to dig in. If you dig outside of that you risk digging into something like a sewer line or a fiber optic cable. Also know what kind of soil you'll be excavating. If you're digging into bedrock you won't get very far.

You also should check your soil records at the town office before you start digging to see what you are going to be digging into and what kind of equipment you will need. Ask the clerk at the town office about your property and they will have the records available for you to see most of the time. If they don't, you might have to have someone come and survey your land.

2. Investigate the conditions of your soil. It’s incredibly important to know what kind of soil you are working with, and this will also inform your digging strategy. Have a professional come and survey your soil.

3. Consider a cut and cover strategy. Cut and cover works if you are digging in relatively soft soil. The idea is that you dig out an area, build a concrete structure inside of it, and then cover the hole thing up with dirt again. Obviously you want to keep your hatch or staircase exposed so that you can enter into your structure. However, if your soil will allow for it this is a good way to build a large framework for your home.

4. Save the excess soil. This is especially important if you plan to create a berm house. A berm house is a house that is covered by soil but still has windows and doorways to the outside. Your house will sit in a deep foundation and once you have completed the construction of the building you can push the dirt up the sides and on top of the house to create the berm look. This will require a reinforced roof.



Method 4 Constructing Your Underground House.

1. Build a perimeter wood frame. You will pour concrete into this frame in order to create a footing. The footings will form the basis for your foundation. The boards should be built according to the specifications of your foundation in your designed plan.

2. Install footings to provide the base for your foundation. Remember to seal the footings to protect them from moisture. Use a high quality sealer. You can pour concrete either directly into trenches or into wood forms.

3. Create stem walls. Start with the corners of the foundation and then build a plum and level wall connecting the two corners. Having something to connect the wall to on either side makes the process easier. It’s much easier to spot if the wall is out of alignment. Remove the flaws using hand trowels.

4. Consider using reinforced concrete on the walls. You will want to use it on the ceiling too if you plan to cover your roof heavily with dirt and soil. Living underground will keep the temperatures relatively moderate, but the earth also puts a huge amount of pressure on the walls and ceiling of your house.  It’s also essential to hire a structural engineer to design earthquake resistant elements if you live in an earthquake prone area.

5. Decide what kind of ceiling you want. You can choose a material as simple as wood boards or something more complex, but sturdier, like brick or concrete. If you choose brick or concrete ensure that you building has strong structural supports.

6. Plan to have scaffolding or brick pillars secure your ceiling. You will have to lay the brick yourself by buying brick and mortar and building a thick pillar up to the ceiling. A six brick base should provide a decent support. If your room is very large you will want to build a few supports. Scaffolding is something that you can buy at a home improvement store, but is more likely to bend and break. Take this step very seriously or you risk potential cave-ins.

7. Use wood beams to outline the rooms in your house. Set up these rooms in accordance with your design plans. Make sure that you leave space in the walls for any potential wiring that you’ll need to do.

8. Consider insulation. Even though you’re living underground you may need insulation. This will keep your heating and cooling costs down and make your energy use much more efficient. Wait until after you have completed the wiring before you install the insulation.



Method 5 Buying a Premade Underground House.

1. Research the kind of underground shelter you would want. Believe it or not there are plenty of companies that specialize in underground shelters. You'll be able to find a number of companies on the internet that can sell you pre-made houses in a variety of different styles. You can go pretty crazy here if you’re willing to spend a lot of money.  Try to consider your price range and the amount of people that you plan to have living with you in this shelter.

2. Purchase your underground house. In most of these situations you have to buy the shelter outright, because generally the idea is that you’ll be holed up in the shelter once you have it. However, some of these companies offer financing.

3. Obtain approval to dig on your property. You first need to pre -mark your excavation area with white paint or stakes. Then call your state excavation number to describe the exact area where you plane to excavate. You will not be allowed to dig outside of this area. In Massachusetts this number is 8-1-1, but it varies state by state. This is important to ensure that you don't dig into a buried sewage system or fiber optic cable.

4. Have your underground house delivered and installed. This is included in the price. Make sure there is a path for their truck to deliver your new house. You can’t have your dig site all the way out in the middle of the woods if there is no road to get there.The installation may take several days, so be aware of that.



Question : How much money do I need to build an underground house?

Answer : It depends on how big the house is and what materials you use, but probably $10K or more.

Question : Is it possible to use this as a super secret lab? Do I need to buy all the super scientific stuff myself?

Answer : You could do that, or anything else your imagination suggests. And, yes, you would probably have to buy everything.

Question : How do you get underground? And put big objects down there without digging up the house?

Answer : Usually, underground houses are built by digging out space on the side of a hill. The house is constructed then the dirt is moved back on top of the structure. One side of the house is usually left exposed.

Question : What would happen if I built an underground house using wood instead of concrete and bricks in a rocky soil? Will it fall down on me?

Answer : While the type of soil would affect the distribution and absorption, all types will bring rain or surface water down to the building materials. Wood, when exposed to water, weakens and rots; it is an essential part of its natural breakdown process. So, yes, it would come apart and quickly, likely falling down on itself in the process.

Question : Instead of either ladder or stairway how about an elevator?

Answer : While elevators can go into basements, they have large foundational and protection requirements. They take a lot of material, space and need plenty of protection around them, such as a building. They are too big for most, and require so much building around them - for the above-ground entry - that it defies what most people picture for an underground house. Besides, they're expensive to build, run and maintain, too.

Question : Should I have a normal house on top?

Answer : There are pros and cons: a normal house distracts from an underground one, and gives you the advantages of both types. However, an above-ground house is not hidden, and may not fit into your plans (such as defense or a location not being found). It is about your preferences.



Tips.

When constructing any trench or hole angle the walls back slightly, so the top is larger than the floor. this lets gravity help you hold back the pressure of the dirt walls.

A phone in case of emergency may be useful.

Before adding the roof always brace the sides of the trench and hole to prevent cave ins.

Ventilation holes are a very good thing to build maybe behind a plant so your underground house will stay secret.

When you brace the walls, drive the stick or pole into the floor, pushing against the wall so that in order for you to push your finger behind the board, you would hurt yourself, or at least get really dirty fingernails.

Brace all walls and never dig deep without a friend near you and above ground.

Have your house inspected by a professional so that you know it won’t collapse.

Plan ahead. You don’t want to work on this during the winter or inclement weather.

Commit time to the project. If you really want an underground house it’s going to be a long process.

Do not try to build an underground home if you live below sea level. You probably will hit water.

Februari 20, 2020

how to build a tiny house

How to Build a Tiny House.

Many people have one very big loan, and that is a home mortgage. A mortgage can end up costing much more than your house is worth and takes much of your lifetime to pay off. One creative way to sidestep this problem is to make the choice to live in a tiny house. It is also a great way to live a minimalist life, avoiding being tied down by too much stuff. This article will start you off with some basic steps to cover when seeking to build a tiny house.



Part 1 Planning Your Build.

1. Figure out what kind of lifestyle you want to live. Your needs for mobility, stability and space will determine the type of tiny house you will be seeking to develop. Consider the following:

If you intend to move a lot, then a trailer-based home is probably a good choice.

If you think you'll maybe move once or twice, then you can use a bigger trailer base for your house a rent a truck to move it for you when the time comes.

Build onto the tiny house. You also have the option of building extensions to the main house, such as a deck or rooftop patio.

If you have a spot to build on, then you can do normal construction on a spot of land (this tends to be more expensive and permanent).

2. Determine what needs your home must meet. Sit down and make a list of all the things you want in your home. Of course, this is a tiny house, so you need to focus on the necessities, as there isn't any room for a lot of stuff. Examples of important basics for the house include:

One or more beds.

Appliances such as the oven, fridge, stovetop, microwave, etc., remembering that all of these will likely be much smaller than those you'd have in a standard size house.

Washer-dryer combo instead of two different machines.

3. Find a location to either park the trailer base or to build your tiny house in situ. Choose a location with accessibility to water and electricity. If this is not possible find a way to come up with alternatives. For example, many people prefer to use solar power and collect rain as part of the tiny house philosophy.



Part 2 Creating a First Draft of the House.

1. Map out all the things you want in your house. As you do so, keep in mind the exact amount of space you have to work with. It will always be less than you expect, so don't be surprised if you have to let go of some dream ideas but see this as an opportunity to be inventive rather than giving up on everything.

Include plenty of storage space and clever ideas such as stairs that include storage underneath.

This step works best by making an electronic floor plan of the house, or you can also make a actual model by hand so that you get a good sense of how it will look in your hands.

2. Scale the design so that the dimensions of your model will be accurate when building the house. A key aspect of this step is to build the house around the appliances you want. Go online and find the appliances that you will buy and go to the specs of the product. There will be dimensions for you to include in your floor plan/model.



Part 3 Making a Budget.

1. Work out the budget by concentrating on the main elements involved. These are appliances, labour, building materials and tools. Usually to build the house with all the desirable (kitchen, trailer, siding, etc.), an average cost is about $35,000 for a 24 ft trailer house. Keep in mind that the smaller the trailer, the cheaper the build. And, if you want fancier things and bigger size, the tiny house can cost up to $100,000.

2. Work out the appliance budget. With the appliances that you have selected in your floor plans as a base, include how much you can spend immediately. Then work out how much you can spend over time (that is, how much you can deduct from your paycheck towards the build).

3. Determine what you can do yourself. Then include the amount of labour that you can put in for things you can do yourself.

4. Figure out the cost of labour for professionals (i.e. plumber, electrician, builders).

5. Cost the tools you will need for your build. Renting the tools when necessary is one way to go so you don't have to put too much money into tools that you will not use again. For some basic tools it might be a better idea to just buy and own them if you don't already have them.This list provides a rundown of the tools you'll likely need.

Air compressor – Drives air powered tools like framing nailers and paint sprayers.

Caulking gun – Used to apply caulking and building adhesive.

Chalk line – Helps mark strait lines so that paneling, siding, and roofing stay in line.

Chisel – Used to finish cutting notches in wood.

Circular Saw – Handheld saw for cutting wood. Very versatile.

Clamps – Very useful when you need a second set of hands and none are available.

Crowbar – Good for amplifying elbow grease, and pulling nails.

Drill – Used for drilling holes and driving screws.

Dust Masks – Essential for protecting your lungs during dusty work.

Eye Protection – Essential for protecting your eyes during most cutting and other debris flinging work.

Framing nailer – Makes driving nails much easier.

Gloves – Essential for protecting your hands from splinters and abrasions.

Hacksaw – Used for cutting metal like pipes, nails, etc.

Hammer – Used for persuading lots of things on the job site, most commonly nails.

Impact driver – Like a drill, but drives screws better when the job is tough.

Level – Used to keep everything strait and level.

Miter saw – Used as a chop saw when many identical angered or strait cuts are needed.

Pliers – Used for pulling nails and most anything when your fingers aren’t tough enough.

Reciprocating Saw – Commonly used for demolition but also very handy for cutting nails and rough cuts on wood.

Rubber mallet – Ideal wen gentile persuasion is needed.

Socket wrench – Good for turning nuts in tight places, like when bolting your tiny house floor framing to the trailer.

Screwdrivers – Needed for turning screws and useful for opening paint cans.

Staple gun – Good for hanging vapor barriers, roofing felt, and can be used on house wrap.

Table saw – Ideal for making long strait cuts.

Tape measure – Used constantly for keeping everything accurate.

Tin snips – Used for cutting thin metal, like the aluminum flashing you’d use between your floor and trailer.

Toolbox – Helpful for keeping everything organized and transportable.

Utility knife – Used to cut thin material like roofing felt, house wrap, and vapor barrier.

Wire cutter – Used when wiring your tiny house.

Wrench – Necessary for turning nuts on bolts, like when connecting your tiny house to the trailer.

6. Put together a materials list. A typical list of materials that you will need in your tiny house. The amount of each that you will need depends on your build, and the cost will therefore reflect what type of tiny house you're building. Here are standard materials needed:

Trailer (varies in the size and length, wood for floors, walls, ceiling, and interior structures.

Installation for the walls, floor and ceiling (recommend Roxul - fire and water resistant).

Class D tires for the trailer, Typical house siding, Typical shingles for roof, Drywall.

Doors and windows, Cabinets and storage closets (many can be built from reclaimed wood if feasible).

Toilet (composting, RV toilet, or a actual functioning toilet).

Shower (typically small standing shower is used, a small tub can be added with creativity).

Sinks (kitchen, and bathroom), Counter-tops, Plenty of screws, braces, and nails.

Pipes for plumbing and propane lines for heating and water lines.

Electrical circuit wiring, outlets, switches, and breakers.

Tyvek wrapping for protection (or similar suited to your area).

Heating system, Regular appliances as selected by you.

Metal sheeting for flashing the trailer base (galvanized for durability).

7. Include solar power elements, as needed. If solar panels are going to be added, then you'll need the following as well: A charge controller, deep cycle batteries, and inverter to store charge and convert from DC to AC power.



Part 4 Constructing Your Tiny House.

Build the foundation of your tiny house

1. Level the trailer using jacks for the trailer. This step is important to do properly or your house will be tilted.

2. Build a frame on the trailer that your house will be built. Anchor the frame to the trailer so that your house does not slide off the trailer during transport keep in mind the weight distribution so that your house does not tip over.

3. Add galvanized sheet metal to flash the bottom of the trailer. This helps protect the home from rodents, water, and other elements from the bottom.

4. Put a floor frame on top. Add the insulation (Roxul) for more protection.

5. Install the sub floor on top.

Wall Framing

1. Build the walls as you had designed in your floor plans. Leave room for the windows and doors, as well as putting in the studs, and weight barring headers.

The headers are one of the aspects that are against building code, but are necessary for a tiny house, as every wall is a weight bearing wall.

You must ensure that everything is perfectly squared.

2. Double check that the windows and door fit in the spaces you made for them. Do this before you put the walls up.

At this point you might want to move anything inside the house that will not fit through the door depending on the design.

3. Sheath the walls while they are still down. Then raise the walls (with help, for safety reasons). Make sure that the walls are perfectly squared with the floor and other walls.

4. Secure the walls to the trailer with anchors.

Adding the Roof

1. Make sure that walls are perfectly parallel with each other before installing the rafters. Apply a spring brace to secure the walls and make them perfectly straight while installing the rafter

Double check the distance between the walls at the top for a good cut.

2. Construct the trusses per the plans that you made. Ensure that the height is under 13.5 ft to stay street legal (this may vary between countries, so check with the road authorities first).

3. Begin the sheathing process. Cut out the boards and glue the truss edges. Use clips to secure the sheets of wood into place and secure with nail/screws

4. Apply the Tyvek covering for more protection on the sheathing boards.

5. Install the reflection barrier followed by the furring strips and shingles.

Adding the Windows, Doors, and Siding

1. Make sure that door and window holes were cut in the walls that were put up.

2. Put Tyvek wrap outside the house for protection

3. Tuck the Tyvek wrapping into the window cut outs. Begin applying flash tape to the window sills to prevent water and heat from entering.

4. Install the windows and secure with a couple screws along the side. Then test the functionality.

5. Apply flashing tape to the outside of the window to insure it is sealed. Leave the bottom unsealed for water drainage, just in case.

For the doors, do the same thing as windows and flash the doorway then start installing the door frame.

6. Install the door. This can be made or purchased.

7. Install locks and door knobs.

8. Begin the siding process by taping the Tyvek seams and installing the furring strips. Paint both sides of the siding before putting up, to prevent rusting.

9. Hang the siding with a nail gun or as the product describes.

10. End the work on the outside by installing fascia boards and a drip edge.

Part 5 Creating the Interior of the Tiny House

1. Install a lofted platform at an optimal height for the sleeping area. This is a common practice in a tiny house. It will also need a ladder or staircase to reach the loft area.

2. Get electrical and plumbing installed by a professional at this point. Do not do this yourself unless you are a professional in these fields.

Make sure you instruct the professional on where you want your outlets, lights and sockets for your tiny house to accommodate the floor plan, such as gas lines for the propane to the stove/oven or water lines to the water heater and shower.

Put in the smoke and CO alarms at the same time.

Consider the power usage or your appliances and adjust accordingly.

3. Begin insulating the home from the inside. Make sure to put foam in the edges so that it is completely sealed.

Make sure that all materials are not affected by the foam, as some do react and that is not a good outcome.

4. Install the major fixtures now. This includes the heater, shower, toilet, sink, and water heater (preferably tankless). The heater weight should be considered in conjunction with the weight of the tiny house as a whole, and a safety zone and materials placed around it.

5. Install the desired flooring. For example, you could use hardwood in the living area and light tiles in the kitchen and bathroom areas. Splashbacks can also be used.

6. Install drywall and/or wall panels.

7. Construct the cabinets and counter tops for the kitchen. It is great if you can use recycled wood for these purposes. Include hookups and openings for the oven, fridge, and sink, etc.

8. Construct and install the bathroom vanity and storage. Install vents and the toilet.

9. Build in the storage units as per the initial design. You may also realize other possible storage options, so remain flexible and open to relevant changes.

10. Put in bulbs and outlet covers.

11. Decorate as desired. Your tiny house is complete. Now you can move in and enjoy your own space.



Question : How do I add a bathroom?

Answer : You need to decide whether you want it to be a whole little room of its own or just a cupboard-style loo with tiny shower. Keep it at one end of the tiny house and make sure it's well ventilated. Keep in mind weight if you're adding a bathtub.



Tips.

While planning make notes of the materials you will use in there largest quantities as most stores will give you better deals when you buy in bulk. However it is necessary to know exact quantities as to not over buy, then your just wasting your money.

Keep in mind the Material while building, so most building materials come in increments of 4 to 8 feet, so build the house around those dimensions to keep it easier.

Warnings.

- Loans are hard to get when there is no much that you have to put up for collateral, it is almost impossible for someone just starting out to get a loan on a none.

Laws - building codes are generally made for regular houses, and city building codes usually frown on most of the common practices the tiny homes follow.

Land - It is hard to find a piece of land to set your tiny house up on, in-city is almost impossible, and outside in a rural area will not have proper hookups.

When putting up the walls, it is important to have help, as this is very dangerous for one person to do alone.

Februari 24, 2020

how to easy frame a mirror

How to Easy Frame a Mirror

When you want to dress up a mirror by framing it, there are a couple of easy ways to do it. The first is building your own frame around the mirror using baseboard molding, which requires a little bit of carpentry. The other way you can do it is to just repurpose a picture frame and put a matching mirror inside of it. Either way, you'll soon have a much more interesting mirror to bring life to your home!

Method 1 Building a Frame with Baseboards.

1. Use a tape measure to measure the mirror you want to frame. Measure the height and write it down. Measure the width and write it down next. You will use these measurements to determine how long to cut the baseboards for the frame.

This method works for framing basic mirrors that don't have any kind of rim or frames around them already. These types of mirrors are also known as floating mirrors or construction-ready mirrors.

You can use this method to put a frame around a mirror that is already attached to a wall, or to frame a mirror before hanging it.

The mirror needs to have straight edges to build a frame around it with baseboards.

2. Purchase primed MDF baseboards to make the frame with. Go to a home improvement center and select the style of baseboards that you want. Purchase a sufficient length of baseboard to surround the mirror according to the measurements you took.

Primed MDF baseboards are easy to paint so you can make them any color you want for the frame.

Tip: You can also use natural wood baseboards or any other style to get the look you want.

3. Cut the baseboards to length with a miter saw. Measure and mark your baseboards to the lengths you need for the sides, top, and bottom. Place the baseboards in a miter box and cut them straight to the lengths that you need.

For example, if your mirror is 2 ft (0.61 m) wide by 3 ft (0.91 m) tall, then you need 2 baseboards that are 2 ft (0.61 m) long and 2 that are 3 ft (0.91 m) long.

4. Cut the corners of the baseboards to a 45-degree angle with a miter saw. Change the angle on the miter box to 45 degrees. Cut in from the corners of each board at a 45-degree angle down towards the inside edge of each board.

This will make the frame fit nicely together in each corner.

5. Paint the baseboards a color of your choice or leave them as is. Use a paintbrush to coat both the front and back of the baseboards (if you want to paint them). Leave them as is if you are fine with the color they came in (such as natural wood).

It's important to paint the backs the same color as well because they can reflect in the mirror.

6. Install the baseboards around the mirror using liquid nails. Squeeze a zig-zag line of liquid nails along the back of the baseboards with a caulk gun. Start with the bottom board, then the sides, then the top and stick them to the mirror one-by-one.

Liquid nails are an adhesive form of caulking.

Avoid placing the liquid nails too close to the inside edges of the baseboards, or it can squeeze out and get on the mirror when you stick the boards on.

7. Secure the baseboards with painter's tape or lay the mirror on the ground. Tape all the baseboards to the wall with painter's tape if you attached them to a mirror that is already hanging. Lay the mirror flat on the ground while the frame dries if the mirror isn't already hanging.

Painter's tape is the blue masking tape that painters use to cover things up that they don't want to get paint on.

8. Let the frame dry completely for 24 hours. Liquid nails need 24 hours to set before you can apply any stress to the frame. Remove the painter's tape after 24 hours if you used it to secure the frame in place on a hanging mirror.

Liquid nails can take a full week to completely cure for maximum strength, but you will be able to safely touch the newly-framed mirror after 24 hours.

9. Fill any gaps in the corners with caulk and paint over it. Use a caulk gun to squeeze a thin line of caulk into any gaps. Smooth it over with your fingers, then paint over it to match the rest of the frame.

This applies only if you used MDF baseboards and painted them. If you used natural wood boards, you will need to do this part with wood filler instead.

Things You'll Need.

Building a Frame with Baseboards.

Mirror.

Primed MDF baseboards

Miter saw..

Tape measure.

Pencil.

Caulk.

Paint.

Paintbrush.

Liquid nails.

Caulk gun.

Level.

Painter's tape.

Method 2 Putting Mirrors in Picture Frames.

1. Find a mirror and frame that match in size. The mirror needs to be the same size as the glass that goes in the picture frame (if it has any). This is easiest to do with square or rectangular mirrors.

If you can't find a frame and mirror that fit together, then you can have a mirror custom cut to fit a frame you want to use. You can also have a frame custom built to fit a mirror that you already have.

Tip: This is a great way to repurpose antique frames or give new life to old, boring mirrors.

2. Remove the frame glass from the frame if there is any. Remove the frame's backing that holds the glass in place and set everything aside so you just have the frame. You don't want glass in front of a reflective mirror.

You might be able to use the backing to secure the mirror in place, but you can recycle or save the glass for something else.

3. Attach the mirror to the back of the frame using silicone. Put a thin bead of silicone around the edge of the mirror or inside lip of the frame. Carefully align the mirror to the back and press it into place.

If the picture frame has a backing material, you could also attach the mirror to that instead and use it to secure the mirror inside the frame. Just make sure it all fits together in place before you start using silicone to attach the mirror to the backing.

Once the mirror is secured to the frame, there are lots of ways you can decorate it, like by putting stencils on the glass of the mirror, or even gluing things like fabric or shells around the frame.

4. Test the weight to make sure the hanging mechanism is strong enough. A mirror is heavier than a picture. Check by lifting up the mirror and frame slightly off the ground by its hanging mechanism (the wire or the hooks) to make sure it's strong enough to support the weight before you hang it to a wall.

If the frame doesn't already have a hanging mechanism, or the existing one isn't strong enough, then you will have to hang it yourself.

Things You'll Need.

Putting Mirrors in Picture Frames.

Mirror.

Picture frame.

Silicone.

Method 3 Framing Mirrors in Creative Ways.

1. Frame a mirror in a reclaimed wood door or window for a rustic frame. Mount pieces of mirror instead of the glass in an old, rustic-looking door or window frame. Get the mirror pieces custom-cut to the dimensions you need by a mirror and glass company. Mount the mirror with silicone adhesive.

2. Mount a mirror inside a vintage platter or tray for a unique mirror frame. Use silicone adhesive to attach a mirror inside of the tray or dish. Things like old cake pans or serving platters work well.

You can go thrift shopping for cheap, vintage platters and dishes, then get a mirror custom-cut to fit perfectly.

3. Glue anything you want around a plain mirror frame to decorate it. Use a hot glue gun to glue shells, sticks, ribbon, or anything else you can dream up around a regular old mirror frame to give it a new life. Let your imagination run wild!

You could even glue tiles around a mirror to make a mosaic frame.

Things You'll Need.

Framing Mirrors in Creative Ways.

Mirror.

Silicone.

Reclaimed wood door or window frame.

Platter or dish.

Hot glue gun.

Decorative items.

November 24, 2019

how to decorate your room for christmas

How to Decorate Your Room for Christmas.

Do you love Christmas? Are you interested in spicing up your room for the holidays this season? Well then this article is just perfect for you! Read below to find out how to decorate your room for Christmas!

Part 1 Adding Trees, Lights, and Garlands.

1. Add a Christmas tree. Christmas trees come in all shapes and sizes, but a smaller one might look more proportionate in a bedroom. You might also want to get a fake tree as opposed to a real one. They are less likely to shed leaves and do not need to be watered.

Add a small craft tree if you have some desk or shelf space. Art and crafts stores often sell mini versions of Christmas trees, ranging between 8 and 12 inches (20.32 and 30.48 centimeters). You will also find mini lights and ornaments in the same area.

Get a 2 to 4 foot (0.61 to 1.22 meters) tall tree if you have a larger room or not a lot of furniture. You can stand the tree on a small table, a stool, or even a crate to give it extra height.

Get a "pencil" tree if you have a small room or a lot of furniture. Pencil trees can range from 3 to 9 feet (0.92 to 2.74 meters) tall, but they can be as narrow as 8 or 20 inches (20.32 or 50.8 centimeters). They don't take up a lot of space width-wise and are perfect for corners.

If you yearn for that pine-scent, consider hiding a few real pine branches in your tree. You can also use a pine-scented spray as well.

2. Hang pine branches if you don't have room for a tree. If you don't have much floor space, you can hang pine branches from the ceiling in the corner of your room. You can also dress up these branches with mini battery-operated Christmas lights, tinsel, and ornaments. It might be a good idea to use plastic ornaments instead of glass ones, however.

Make sure to thoroughly rinse the branches so you don't bring home any insects.

3. Drape some pine garlands around your room. You can even decorate the garland with mini battery-operated Christmas lights, tinsel, and ornaments. Great places to hang such garlands include above your bed, over your window, around your ceiling, and draped over your bookshelves.

4. Decorate your tree, pine branches, and pine garlands. Find some ornaments, lights, beaded garlands, and tinsel. Drape these around your tree, pine branches, or pine garland. If you are hanging your branches or garlands, consider using plastic ornaments instead of glass ones.

Mini Christmas ornaments might look better on pine garlands. You can find them in art and crafts stores, in the same section that sells mini/craft Christmas trees.

If your tree is less than 3 feet (0.92 meters) tall, use mini battery-operated Christmas lights. The plug-in lights might be too long for smaller trees.

5. Hang up some tinsel. If you can't find any (or don't like) pin garlands, you can hang up some tinsel garlands instead. Great places to hang them include above windows and around ceilings. If you use tape to hang the garlands up, be sure to use clear tape. It will be less visible.

6. Put up some Christmas lights. Great places to hang up lights include above your bed, over your shelves, and around your window. You can get ones that plug into an outlet or battery-operated ones. If you use tape to hang up your lights, try to use clear; it will be less visible on your wall.

If your room has white walls, try to get Christmas lights with white wires instead of the traditional green ones. They will blend into your walls better and clash less.

Unless you are putting them up in your window, avoid getting blinking or flashing lights; those can be very distracting after a while.

Consider matching the lights to your room and decorations. For example, if your room has a lot of cool colors, try getting blue or clear lights. If your room has a lot of warm colors, try getting white or multi-colored lights.

Consider putting "icicle" style lights in your window.

Part 2 Bringing the Festive In.

1. Switch out curtains, blankets, bedspreads, and pillowcases. You don't need to use curtains with Santas and snowmen on them, but red ones might look more festive than pink ones. Here are a few ideas to get you started:

Use colors such as red or green. Darker shades might look better than brighter ones.

For a rustic cabin feel, switch out your throw or blanket for a cozy quilt or sweater/knitted blanket. Anything made from plaid flannel will also work.

Make an easy sweater pillow by slipping a square-shaped pillow inside a bulky sweater and tying the sleeves in the back.

2. Buy scented candles, wax melts, or potpourri. If you can't put up a lot of decorations, you can still make your room feel more festive by bringing in scented candles, wax melts, or potpourri. You don't even have to light candles; many scented candles are potent enough on their own. If you are getting candles, consider displaying three different-sized ones on a red, green, gold, or silver candle charger/plate. Listed below are a few Christmas scents:

Gingerbread, Peppermint and Candy Cane, Winter Wonderland, Fireplace, Pine, Spruce, Balsam, and Cedar

3. Bring out snow globes, nutcrackers, and figurines. Shelves, dressers, and desks are great for displaying trinkets such as snow globes, nutcrackers, and figurines. If you already have some on your shelves, consider switching them out for Christmasy ones instead. Here are a few ideas to get you started:

If you like nature, put up some pine tree or reindeer figurines.

If you are religious, put up figurines related to the Nativity.

If you like the classical look, put up a snowman, a Santa Clause, or even a nutcracker.

If you don't want to put away any of your existing decorations, consider decorating them instead. For example, if you have a figurine of a cat, try putting a little Santa hat on it.

4. Hang some decorations from your window, shelves, or walls. If you don't have a lot of room for a tree, you can hang small decorations using thread or clear thread/fishing line instead. Here are some ideas to get you started:

Candy canes and jingle bells can be slung over doorknobs or strung from ribbon.

Christmas cards can be clipped to yarn, jute cord, or ribbon using wooden clothespins.

Christmas stockings can be tacked to your wall using nails or thumbtacks/pushpins.

Ornaments, plastic icicles, and snowflakes (plastic or paper) can be suspended from thread. They'll look delightful against a wall or window.

5. Set up a Nativity or Christmas Village scene. If you like to collect things, setting up a Nativity or Christmas Village scene on your desk or dresser can be just the thing for you. You'll have lots of fun buying figurines and arranging them. You can find them at most arts and crafts stores.

You can also make a Nativity scene at home using popsicle sticks, straw, and wood or clay figurines.

6. Spray some fake frost onto your windows. Try to spray the frost towards the bottom corners of your window to make it look more realistic. Fake frost usually comes in a spray can, like spray paint, and washes off your window with soap and water. They are great for those who don't get snow for Christmas.

7. Make your own Christmas decorations. Not all Christmas decorations have to be store-bought. Homemade ones can have their charm too. If you don't have a lot of money to spend, or just like to be crafty, you can make some of your own decorations and display them in your room. Here are a few ideas to get you started:

Find some pinecones outside and paint them with acrylic paint or glitter. Display them on your windowsill.

String cranberries and popcorn into thread to make garlands.

Make some paper chains using construction paper.

Cut out some paper snowflakes from white printer paper.

Make a gingerbread house and display it on your dresser or desk.

Cut out some letters from glitter paper to spell "Merry Christmas" and tack them to your wall.

Part 3 Finding Inspiration.

1. Choose a color scheme that matches your existing room decor. Many color schemes inspire Christmas, but not all of them might work with your room. For example, if your room has a lot of pink and white, the traditional red and green might clash. Red and white might be more suitable. Here are some common Christmas color schemes to get you started:

Red and green : Red, green, and white/gold : Blue and white/silver : Blue, white, and silver : White/ivory and gold : Red and white/gold : Green and white/gold.

2. Decide on a theme. Sometimes, having a set theme can help you choose which decorations to put up. It can also help your room look more unified and less cluttered. As with colors, choose a theme that matches your room. For example, if your room has a lot of heavy, Victorian-era furniture, a rustic or nature theme might clash. Themes that are more Victorian or ornate might work better with your room decor. Here are some common Christmas themes to get you started:

1900s, Charles Dickens, Victorian era, and Vintage inspired

Rustic, woodland cabin-inspired, with lots of gingham, knit, wood, and burlap

Nature, with lots of snow, pine trees, pinecones, reindeer, and woodland creatures

Traditional/classic with lots of red and green, snowmen, and Santa Claus

Fancy/royal with lots of silver or gold, ornate scroll patterns, and lots of rich brocade

Winter wonderland, with lots of blue, silver, and white, snow, snowflakes, icicles, and pine trees

3. Go window shopping. Look at how stores step up their displays. If you see any you like, try to copy them. Take pictures, write down what you see, or make a quick sketch. You don't have to copy the display exactly; you can just use elements from it, such as silver ornaments and glittery snowflakes.

You can also get ideas from a nature walk as well.

4. Consider having some background noise while you work. If you have a laptop, radio, or TV in your room, consider playing some Christmas music or a Christmas movie. They might inspire you or get you into the Christmas spirit.

5. Work with your existing room decor. Sometimes, what you already have in your room might inspire your Christmas decorations. For example, if your room has a lot of wooden furniture in it, you can decorate it with some rustic Christmas decorations to make it look like a cozy, woodland cabin.

Keep the size of your room in mind. If your room is very small and cramped, it might not be a good candidate for a Christmas tree. Some pine garlands, however, would be perfect for it.

6. Look around your room for blank spaces. If you don't know where to start decorating, take a look around your room. See if there are any blank spaces or surfaces, and start decorating there. For example:

Is there a bare wall in your room? If so, consider decorating it with some paper snowflakes or Christmas cards.

Is there a blank corner on your desk or dresser? What about on your shelf? These places are great for displaying mini trees, figurines, and scenes.

Curtain rods and doorknobs are great places to hang decorations from.

Windows are great places to hang decorations, such as lights and ornaments, from.

Tips.

Some decorations need to be hung up. While some are light enough to be taped (such as tinsel), others will need hooks and nails (such as pine garlands). If you live in a rental unit, you might need to keep this in mind.

Keep your decorations proportionate. The smaller your room is, the smaller decorations you should use.

Less is more. It is easy to get carried away and over-decorate. If your room starts to look garish and cluttered, you might need to put some decorations away.

Consider decorating just one part of your room, such as a dresser top or a window.

Clean your room before you decorate it. Vacuum the floors and dust the shelves. Once you put up your decorations, it will be difficult to clean.

Try to keep your color scheme and theme consistent.

If you can't decide on a theme you could just do red and white.

Warnings.

Avoid hanging tinsel and paper too close to lamps, TVs, computers, heaters, and other electronic devices. These can heat up quickly and create a fire hazard.

If you have cats and are planning on putting up a tree, consider using plastic ornaments instead of glass ones. Most cats will knock over a Christmas tree at some point in their lives and break a couple of ornaments.

If you have pets, make sure that you hang your decorations where they can't reach them.

Be sure to rinse any pine branches before bringing them into your room, or you may also bring in a few six or eight-legged "guests."

Desember 07, 2019