how to easy hang a mirror

How to Easy Hang a Mirror

Hanging a mirror is a great way to open up your space and make it look bigger and brighter! Weigh and measure your mirror to determine Once you’ve picked the perfect spot to hang your mirror, it’s time to straighten it up and mark where the hardware will go. Install your hardware and hang the mirror in place, then admire the finished product!

Part 1 Choosing a Location.

1. Stand on a bathroom scale with and without the mirror to calculate its weight. The difference between the 2 numbers is the weight of the mirror. A heavy mirror will weight between 35 to 100 pounds (16 to 45 kg), while a lighter mirror will fall between 1 to 35 pounds (0.45 to 15.88 kg). While both weight categories hang the same way, you’ll need to put more thought and care into anchoring a heavy mirror into the wall.

If your mirror weighs over 10 pounds (4.5 kg), have someone help you with the placing and hanging process.

Heavy mirrors need some kind of anchor, such as a stud in the wall, so that will affect where you can place it.

Make sure to choose hardware with a high enough weight capacity to hold your mirror!

2. Choose a room to hang the mirror in. Think about which rooms feel smaller, dark, or more cramped, and could use some brightening up, such as bathrooms or bedrooms. You could also use the mirror as a statement piece in main areas of the house, such as the living room mantel or the dining room.

Hang a mirror 4 to 5 inches (10 to 13 cm) above your mantel for a central statement piece.

Display a dramatic mirror in the dining room or entryway to reflect light and open up the space.

Add a new mirror to your bathroom to add visual interest.

Hang a full-length mirror on your door to conserve space.

3. Ask someone to help you hold and place the mirror to get the full picture. Have a friend or family member hold the mirror up to the wall while you step back and look. This will help you visualize the finished product and find the exact placement you want. Once you’ve decided on a spot, mark the outline with pencil or masking tape.

4. Make a paper outline of the mirror to easily visualize where to hang it. Use butcher paper or cardboard to trace and cut out the shape of the mirror. Hold the outline up to the wall and use it to visualize how the mirror would look. Adjust it until you find a spot that you like, then use pencil lines or masking tape to mark the placement.

5. Find a stud in the wall to hang a heavy mirror. If your mirror is over 35 pounds (16 kg), your best bet is to drill into a stud to support the weight. These wooden beams in the walls act as inner supports and will help hold the mirror more solidly than plaster or drywall. To find a stud, use a stud finder tool, knock and listen, or look for indicators like outlets and molding nails.

6. Use a straight-edged board to check the wall for flatness. If the wall is bumpy, it can make a heavy mirror wobble or even break from uneven pressure. Use a long, flat board, such as a yardstick or a straight piece of 1x3 lumber. Slide the board over the wall and note any rocking, which indicates a bump.

If the wall has too many bumps, mark them in pencil and sand them down gently with medium or coarse sandpaper. To save time, you could also just choose a new place to hang the mirror.

Part 2 Measuring and Marking the Space.

1. Draw a line on the wall where the bottom of the mirror will go. Once you’ve picked the perfect spot for the mirror, have someone help hold the mirror while you mark its position. Line up a level below the mirror’s bottom edge and make sure it’s straight. Set the mirror down, but keep the level in place as a straightedge. With a pencil, draw a light line along the top of the level indicating the position of mirror’s bottom edge once it’s hung. Make the line as long as the bottom of the mirror.

Before you draw, tilt the level until the bubbles in the liquid line up perfectly, indicating that the line is perfectly straight.

2. Keep your level and pencil close by for hanging an unbacked mirror. At this point, you can start installing the hardware for your unbacked mirror. However, you’ll need to keep your measuring and marking supplies handy during the process, so don’t put them away yet!

3. Measure and mark the distance for a backed mirror. Use a tape measure to find the distance between the bottom edge of the mirror and the top edge of a hanging point/hole. With the measuring tape, measure the same distance up from the line you drew on the wall. Draw second line at that height, making sure it’s the same length and parallel to the first.

4. Use a strip of masking tape on a backed mirror with 2 hanging points. Larger mirrors often have 2 hanging points on the back, which can make it difficult to accurately measure and space out the hardware. An easy way to measure is to take a piece of masking tape and lay it horizontally across the 2 hooks on the back of the mirror. Use a pen to mark where the 2 hooks are under the tape, then peel off the tape and place it on your wall, along the second line.

Once the tape is placed on the wall, you can start installing the hardware. You can keep the tape on the wall while you install, then peel it off once you’re done!

If the mirror only has 1 hanging point, measure from the side of the mirror to the center of the hanging point. Measure the same distance on the wall, along the second line. With a pencil, mark where the hanging point will go.

Part 3 Hanging an Unbacked Mirror.

1. Use brackets to hang heavy unbacked mirrors. You’ll need 2 J brackets for the bottom, with a cradle wide enough for the thickness of your mirror, and 2 sliding J brackets for the top.

2. Install a row of 3-4 J-hooks along the bottom line drawn on the wall. Use as many hooks as you need to support the mirror’s weight. Evenly space them out and install them with sturdy hollow-wall fasteners for wallboard or plaster, wood screws for wall framing, or masonry anchors if you’re fastening the hooks to brick or concrete.

You may also want to pad the J-hooks with pieces of felt to protect the back of the mirror.

You can also use a single J-shaped metal strip called a J-strip. You should pad this piece as well.

3. Mark where the sides of mirror will sit on the wall. Use a level and a pencil to draw 2 lines on the wall, indicating the length of the mirror’s sides. They should extend upward, both at a right angle to the bottom horizontal line.

4. Install 2-3 L- or Z-clips along the drawn vertical lines on the wall. Following the same intervals as the bottom J-hooks, loosely attach additional fasteners that will keep the mirror in place. Choose L- or Z-clips based on the mirror’s design, then screw them into the wall. Keep the screw loose so the front side that will rest against the mirror is loose as well.

Since these clips won’t support the mirror’s weight, you only need light-duty fiber or plastic anchors called wall plugs to install them.

Pad the L- and Z-clips with adhesive-backed felt where they’ll touch the glass.

5. Slide the mirror into place and tighten the clips to keep it secure. Move the side fasteners out of the way before setting the mirror’s bottom edge into the J-hooks. Lift the mirror by the sides and tilt it backward against the wall, then tighten the L- or Z-clips just enough to hold the mirror firmly.

Part 4 Hanging a Backed/Framed Mirror.

1. Use monkey hooks to hang a heavy mirror if you don’t have any tools. These thin, minimal-damage hooks make it easy to hang a mirror that weighs up to 35 pounds (16 kg) on drywall. They don’t even require any tools to install besides a tape measure and a pencil! Just push and twist the hook to insert it into the wall.

The best part is that monkey hooks only leave a tiny, nail-sized hole behind, instead of a big anchor hole.[15]

If your mirror weighs more than 35 pounds (16 kg), try upgrading to gorilla hooks. They have the exact same design and installation style, and they can handle up to 50 pounds (23 kg).

These tap-in hooks are perfect for hanging on drywall.

2. Use plastic wall anchors for a variety of sizes and weight capacities. Although these create a larger hole in the wall than the monkey hooks, they still do less damage than anchor holes and they’re much easier to install. Choose your size and weight capacity based on how large and heavy your mirror is. To install, simply screw the hooks into the wall!

3. Use a toggle bolt if you don’t have a wall stud to drill into. Anchoring with a wall stud is the best method, but if you can’t locate a wall stud or it’s not available, toggle bolts are your next best bet. Drill a hole in the wall large enough for the toggle bolt, then thread a machine screw through the toggle bolt nut. Pinch the wings on the toggle bolt flat, then push it into the hole you drilled in the wall. Tighten the bolt with a screwdriver until it hits the back of the wall.

To finish, hang the mirror’s hooks on the toggle bolt and use a level to make sure everything’s straight.

Toggle bolts work best for hanging heavy mirrors on plaster walls.

To save time, use a toggle bolt already fitted with a picture-hanging hook.

Things You’ll Need.

Pen.

Pencil.

Painter’s tape/masking tape.

Measuring tape.

Hardware.

Drill.

Butcher paper or cardboard.

Straight-edged board.

Medium to coarse sandpaper.

November 24, 2019

how to choose winter interior decor

How to Choose Winter Interior Decor.

Home decor in general is, of course, a matter of personal taste, so when you're looking to decorate the house for winter, the best guide to follow is your own gut. However, an important first step is to decide which areas to focus on, both in your home overall and then within each room. Finding ways to emphasize warmth will then make your home that much comfier during the coldest months. And for those of you who take your shoes off indoors, layering rugs during the winter is a further way to add warmth while adding seasonal variety to your decor.







Deciding Where and How to Decorate.



Choose which rooms to decorate. If you have the budget, time, and inclination to overhaul your home entirely, feel free to go wild. If not, however, prioritize rooms that see the most use. Don't waste time and money on, say, your bedroom, which hardly anyone but you will see. Instead, focus on areas like your.

Living room.

Family room.

Dining room.

Kitchen.

Bathroom(s).



Pick a color scheme. If you're a purist, bring the outside in with seasonal colors that emphasize cold. If, on the other hand, you want to make your home a comfy hideaway from the elements, go the opposite route with warm colors. There's no right or wrong, so follow your instincts and please your own taste.

Cold color schemes include white paired with either blue, burgundy, emerald, gray, plum, or silver.

Warm colors also include white, as well as browns, reds, and yellows.

To find colors that match your paint, furniture, and other decor, use online color palettes.

Add seasonal decorations. If you celebrate Christmas, you're probably already starting the winter off by decorating for that. But whether or not you celebrate that holiday, search the aisles or online for decorations that don't tie directly into the holiday. Use these to decorate your home throughout the winter season, even after you've packed all the Santa stuff away.

Items to look for include figurines, framed pictures, snow globes, wreaths, and garland.

Neutral designs include snowmen, sleighs, winter villages, and bare or snow-covered evergreens.



Use small touches to drive winter home. Again, if you want to go hog-wild about it, feel free to make your home a winter wonderland with any number of appropriately themed decorations. But if time, budget, and space is limited, use them wisely. Consider:

Choosing one fanciful item to stand out as a seasonal centerpiece in a given area, like a model winter village to top a mantelpiece, bureau, or window seat.

Replacing everyday items with seasonally decorated ones, like dish- or hand towels, salt and pepper shakers, and placemats.

Investing in seasonal pillow cases, blankets, comforters, and/or even sofa- and armchair covers to quickly punch up areas like bedrooms, living rooms, and dens.



Choose decorations that transition from season to season. Between school and holidays, both fall and winter can be busy times of year, so plan ahead to minimize work. As you decorate for each season and/or holiday, use items that will still be appropriate as you roll over to the next so you can minimize work. For instance:

Red, yellow, orange, and brown scream autumn when bunched together, but each is a warm color that can help make your winter home more inviting. Say you decorated your living room with throw pillows in all four colors for fall. Simply take away the yellow and orange ones and leave the red and brown pillows.

Hanging wreaths with bare branches is a popular way to decorate for both fall and winter. Simply swap the autumn leaves with more winter-appropriate flair like holly leaves, oranges, or leaves painted in cool colors like blue or silver.

Evergreen garland and pine cones are Christmas favorites, but on their own they work just as well for the whole winter.









Making Your Space Feel Warm and Cozy.



Provide literal warmth with fire. If your house has one, use your fireplace! Rearrange the furniture to make the hearth the centerpiece of that room. Make a blazing fire a daily, nightly, or weekly ritual with your loved ones.

If your fireplace is inoperable, stack some bright firewood in the rack anyway to suggest the idea of a nice warm fire.



Set out candles. Whether or not you have a fireplace, light candles to add the flickering glow of flames to your home. Choose candlesticks or holders that enhance the winter theme either by color, design, or both. Enhance the effect by burning scented candles that fill the house with pleasing smells that highlight the season.

Gold or brass candlesticks provide warm colors and reflective surfaces, enhancing the light and suggestion of warmth.

Mugs, bowls, and jars filled with readymade candles and decorated with seasonal designs are also widely available.

Popular scents for winter include cinnamon, cloves, oranges, pine cones, and various types of wood.

Alternatively, you can also use LED candles if you're worried about fire risks or forbidden to use candles.



Add throws to seating areas. Drape throw blankets over the backs of your couches and armchairs. Arrange throw pillows in the corners of each one, too. If you have an accent chair, pile extras on the seat so family, roommates, and guests can help themselves as needed. Don't be mingy with them; the more, the better!

Choose neutral-colored throw pillows and blankets to use year-round. This way, you can easily dress up each seating area with just a couple of new winter-themed blankets and/or pillows.



Change your curtains. Make an instant dramatic change to your home by hanging curtains selected especially for winter. Choose whichever color or design highlights the season best for your tastes, but favor thick, heavy fabrics to suggest more warmth and protection from the cold outside. For the best insulation, choose thermal curtains, which are designed to prevent heat from escaping while also blocking drafts from the windows.

If you miss the sunlight in winter and still want to let it in without keeping the drapes shut all day, you can also find thermal-backed vertical blinds that allow more light to pass through with minimal heat loss.







Layering Rugs for Extra Coziness.



Determine the best spaces to layer rugs. Assess how much visibility the floor area receives in each room. Favor open areas over small, cramped ones. Use layered rugs where they will stand out and be noticed, rather than areas where furniture blocks them from view.

Larger rooms like the living room or den are generally ideal for this. Depending on the square footage and the amount of furniture inside, master bedrooms can also be a likely candidate.

Layered rugs can also be used in smaller spaces with little or no furniture, like hallways or bathrooms. However, expect rugs to possibly wear out faster here due to concentrated foot traffic.



Select your rugs. Maybe you're buying both at once, or perhaps you're trying to pair a new rug with one that you already own. Either way, make sure the base rug and accent rug complement each other. Make your selections according to.

Size: whether you're choosing an accent rug, base rug, or both, aim to have at least one foot (30.5 cm) of the base rug revealed along each side of the accent rug. With the base rug, always err on the side of too big if you're unsure of how large a rug you should select.

Supporting role versus starring role: favor neutral rugs for your base. Let the accent rug shine by choosing a base rug that won't upstage it. At the same time, make life easier by going with a base rug that can be used year-round while you switch accent rugs by season.

Contrast: make the accent rug pop out even more by pairing it with a base rug that contrasts it. Use color, pile height, shape, texture, or a combination of these features to make your selections more eye-catching.



Lay out your rugs. For areas like hallways or bathrooms without furniture, simply center the rugs in the open floor space. In more heavily furnished rooms, use your rugs to define specific spaces within that room, such as a sitting area in your living room, or the desk area in your home office. This may take a little trial-and-error depending on the sizes of your rugs, the open space available, and the surrounding furniture. For example.

One rule of thumb is to cover at least two feet (61 cm) of both rugs with the furniture surrounding it. Let's say your rug is being placed at the foot of a single 3-seat sofa in the living room, with no other surrounding furniture. As long as you're happy with the amount of rug visible, this should be fine.

Now let's say you're framing the rugs with an L-shaped couch. Covering two feet on either side of the base rug may look fine, but doing the same to a small accent rug may not. Here, you may want to pull the accent rug out from underneath on one or both sides..

Now say that you also have a coffee table to go with your L-shaped couch. If it's solid wood (as opposed to glass and see-through), you may wish to pull either the accent rug or both rugs further out from underneath the couch so they are more visible.

November 17, 2019

how to decorate your home with vintage books

How to Decorate Your Home With Vintage Books.

Vintage books can serve as a beautiful and classic decoration for your home. They fit into a variety of decor styles, from coastal to French country to farmhouse. Whether you leave them the way they are and display them on bookshelves, or repurpose them into something else entirely, there are many ways to decorate your space with old books.







Finding Vintage and Old-Looking Books



Set a budget. Vintage books can be expensive. Determine how much you want to spend and how you want to use the books you’re buying. If you’re going to deconstruct them, it’s better to buy cheap hardcovers than to spend more on authentic vintage books.



Search flea markets and thrift stores. Visit flea markets and thrift stores in your area to look for old books with cloth or leather covers. Search for thrift stores in nicer parts of town since these will typically have more vintage items. To find shops, type "thrift stores near me" into your favorite search engine.

While browsing the store, look for books that appear to be a matching set, or just find random ones to create a more eclectic look.



Browse eBay for old books. Auction sites like eBay are a good place to find old books that people want to get rid of. Try searching with the phrase “vintage books” or “set of old books” to find books that are decor-worthy. Verify that the seller will take care to ship them to you in waterproof packaging.



Remove dust jackets from hardcover books. Most books will instantly look older and more classic if you remove the dust jacket. If you don’t want to spend the money on vintage books, visit a used to bookstore to find cheap hardcover books. Check behind the dust jacket before you leave the store just to be sure you like the appearance and color of the book underneath.



Use books you already own. If you have any hardcover books at home, check under the dust jacket to see if you like the way the cloth cover looks. Even if you only have paperbacks, you can still remove the cover and use the bound or unbound pages to decorate your home.



Age new books by soaking them in coffee. If you want the aged book look without spending any money, find a book you don’t mind deconstructing. Remove the cover and soak the pages in a bowl or bucket of brewed coffee for a couple hours. Hang the book to dry in the sun, then display it once it’s dry.







Placing Books around Your Home



Stack books vertically and horizontally. Books don’t all have to be lined up horizontally along a shelf. Create a vertical stack of two or three books and place it beside your lined up books to create some variation along the shelf.

The vertical stacks can also serve as bookends to hold the others upright.



Use books as risers on tables. Place a small stack of two or three books on a side table or coffee table. Then put a lamp, small clock, or candlestick on top of the books. Change how many books are in the stack until you find the level you like best.



Find large books to use as coffee table books. Look for large books like old atlases, almanacs, or textbooks and place these on tables as coffee table books. Put them on a large tray with a vase of flowers and an interesting object, like a vintage magnifying glass or compass.



Pair books with the same color scheme. Stack or line up books that create a cohesive color scheme. For example, gather books that are varying shades of blue, or choose different browns for a neutral look. Or remove the covers to get all your books to have the same white or cream-colored spine.



Change the color of books with paint or burlap. If you want all your books to match each other or your decor, brush the covers lightly with paint and then hang them up to dry. Or wrap them with burlap or wallpaper and glue the material to the inside of the cover.



Match books to the theme of the room. Find vintage children's books to decorate a nursery, or place old gardening books in a sun room with lots of plants. If you have a room with a nautical theme, search for old seafaring books or vintage copies of Moby Dick or The Tempest.



Bundle old pages with twine. Whether you have a book that’s falling apart, or you just want one to look like it is, remove the book’s cover. You can separate the pages completely, or leave them with the spine intact. Wrap some twine around it and display this little vintage package on a bookshelf, table, or windowsill.

Tie the twine in a bow and add a dried flower on top for a more feminine decor style.







Repurposing Vintage Books



Attach books to the wall to use as shelves. Drill a couple small holes near the edge of one flap of your book, and buy L-brackets to attach the book to the wall as a shelf. Then place light objects on it like bud vases or small picture frames.



Stack books to become a table. If you have a lot of old books, stack them into a column beside a couch or armchair to use as a side table. To make it sturdy, place the larger, heavier books at the bottom and work your way up to the lighter, smaller ones.

If you don’t plan to reuse them or read them later, you can glue the covers together to add more stability.



Cut a hole in a book to make a planter. Hollow out a book by gluing the pages together, drilling a hole in each corner and using a box cutter to cut the center of the pages out. Pop a shallow plastic container inside to hold a plant, then place your book planter in a windowsill.



Frame books on the wall. Hang an old paperback book on the wall by piercing the back several pages and back cover with thumbtacks. Surround the book with an oversized vintage-looking frame that has the glass removed. Group several of these framed books on the same wall for a bigger statement.



Make a book wreath. Tear pages out of an old book and roll each one into a cone, gluing the edge so it will maintain this shape. Then glue each cone to a styrofoam wreath mold, working your way back to front. Hang the wreath on any wall where you want some literary flair.

For a more elaborate wreath, you can roll the pages into other shapes, like rosettes.



Use pages as wallpaper. Get an extra copy of a book you love and remove all the pages to use as wallpaper. Hold each page where you want it to go on the wall and paint over it with a craft glue like Mod Podge. Cover the entire wall, or just a select area over your desk or bed

November 13, 2019

how to decorate your home for any holiday using a video projector on a h...

How to Decorate Your Home for Any Holiday Using a Video Projector on a Homemade Outdoor Stand.

An inexpensive home theater type projector can be used to project holiday-themed slide shows or motion video on the outside of your home. Changing videos allows celebration of any holiday with the type of message you want to convey. A protective stand is important if using a projector not designed for outdoors, so that you don't expose it to the elements.

Steps.

1. Purchase an inexpensive projector. Choose the type that can project videos from a flash drive or an SD card. This keeps the operation simple, since you won't need a computer or a DVD player connected to the projector.

2. Choose a blank wall on the front of your home. If necessary, you can create an area by covering it with some type of white material such as white foam insulation board, white plastic, painted plywood or white fabric.

3. Determine the best location for the projector to get maximum visibility. Once you have located the spot and the height for the projector, you can proceed to make a protective stand for the projector.

4. Cut a piece of lumber the right length for the height you need. Set it in a bucket filled with concrete. If using a 5 gallon (18.9 L) bucket, half full is enough. Screwing small pieces of thin scrap lumber cut to fit inside the bucket tightly at right angles to the vertical support will help hold it in place while the concrete is added and while it is curing. You may wish to drive some large nails into the lower part of the lumber before setting it in the concrete so that the wood cannot be pulled out once the concrete has set up.

5. Measure the projector and obtain a plastic tub that will cover it with room to spare. For a small projector, a plastic dishpan works well.

6. Cut a piece of plywood to fit inside the tub. Screw some scraps of lumber to the bottom of it to make a secure connection point for running in screws. Screw through the tub into the lumber with one screw on each of two opposite sides, the same distance from the edge so that the tub can be rotated up to reveal the plywood. You will want to place the screws toward one edge, not in the center.

7. Position the projector on the plywood and fasten it down by running plastic plumbers strap over the top and screwing it to the plywood. Leave it loose enough that the projector can be removed, but tight enough that it doesn't slide out too easily.

8. Cut a hole in the tub in front of the lens of the projector. You may also want to cut a hole to give line of sight to the spot on the projector that receives input from the infrared remote control.

9. Screw the plywood to the top of the vertical support that has been set in concrete in the bucket. The projector is now ready to be positioned outdoors and plugged in. You may want to add a wireless motion sensor "driveway alert" type device to protect against theft. Place it inside the tub. The receiving unit inside the house will sound an alarm if the projector is tampered with.

10. Create the video you want to use. There are several good tools for making videos. Photofilmstrip and OpenShot Video editor are two free ones. Create slides as .jpg images and piece them into a video with your favorite video editing software. Wikimedia Commons is a good source for photos, or you can use you own. You can add text to images using graphics tools, such as Gimp, Pinta, or Paint.net.

11. Load the video on a flash drive and plug it into the projector. Set the projector to repeat the video continuously. By adding text you can express your own ideas of how the holiday should be celebrated. You may want to include religious texts, such as short Bible verses or other texts that are meaningful to you. Text seems to show up better on imperfect surfaces if you use white text on a darker background.

Tips.

You may want to apply some paint or other form of covering to improve the appearance of the stand.

Warnings.

Using an indoor electrical device, such as the projector may be slightly risky. Using a GFI outlet should help it be safer. Don't set it up to run in wet weather.

Januari 12, 2020

how to create a room divider

How to Create a Room Divider. 

A room divider can be a perfect solution to not having privacy in a room or where there is a need to make the room more useful space-wise. While there are plenty available to buy, they may not come with the style or design that works for your décor, or they may just be too pricey. Fortunately, with a little willingness to do some basic woodwork and crafting, you can create your own at home for a lot less than buying a brand new one.

Method 1 Paper Room Divider.

1. Prepare the work-space first. Lay down clean sheets or similar to protect the work surface and to provide a nice area to work on.

Making the frames

1. Form three frames that create the divider. To do this, start with the first frame.

2. Saw the corners of the wood pieces at a 45 degree angle. This is necessary to allow the wood pieces to fit together snugly.

3. Lay the first frame out on the floor, on your work-space. Place a short piece (one of the pieces measuring 4 x 4 x 75cm (1 /12" x 1 1/2" x 29 1/2")) on the work surface. Then place a long piece on each side of this. Finish by placing the other short piece at the base. This forms a large rectangle, namely the frame.

4. Join the four pieces of wood together. Using the glue suitable for wood, glue the angled corners together, to attach each piece of wood permanently to form the frame. Push the join together for a bit using your hands or a clamp, to help ensure a tight affixing and to ensure that the glue works as it should. Allow to fully dry.

5. Strengthen the joint areas. Where the angled parts have been glued together, use the L-shaped plates. Screw these onto the reverse side of the corner joins. Don't worry, these will get painted over along with the wood.

6. Repeat to make the remaining two frames.

Painting the Frames.

1. Set up the paint and painting equipment. Put down a painting drop-cloth to protect the work surface.

2. Paint the frames on all sides. You can rest the frames on upturned yogurt pots or ice cream containers, or just wait for each wider side to dry before turning the frame over and doing the other side.

3. Repeat two to three times. The paintwork should appear smooth, glossy and well coated. Keep in mind how it'll look in your home. Allow to dry between each layer added.

Read the instructions accompanying the paint to help you to determine the right amount of layers. If it doesn't clarify this, try two, then go for three layers if you're not satisfied with two.

Adding the Hinges.

1. Attach the hinges to the sides of what will be the center frame. Place three hinges on each side, placing the top one approximately 30xm (12") from the top and the base one 30xm (12") from the base of the center frame. The center hinge goes in the middle between these two hinges.

2. Attach the frames together to form the divider. Attach the two side frames to the center frames at the hinges.

Attaching the Paper

1. Place the divider down on the floor, completely folded out flat. Have it facing reverse-side upward, as this is the side that you'll be attaching the paper pieces to.

2. Place the paper sheets over each frame. There needs to be an overlay section toward the middle of each frame, as the paper won't cover the whole frame length. Adjust to ensure that the paper is covering each frame sufficiently.

3. Trim the paper to fit the frames neatly. Ensure that there is sufficient paper to glue onto the wood frame part, to hold it in place. All trimming must be very straight and neat, so use a ruler if needed and/or get a helper with this stage.

4. Attach the paper. Paint glue around the wood parts and gently stretch the paper over the glue. Also gently hammer in some panel pins in each corner and center of each length the paper is attached to.

Be careful when stretching the paper, to avoid tearing it.

5. Allow to dry completely.

Finishing Up

1. Screw the corner covers onto each corner joint of the frames. This covers the joints and neatens the whole project.

2. Stand the divider up. Check that it opens and closes with ease. You may need to make adjustments if it's getting stuck.

3. Take to the room where it will be used. Set it up and enjoy your new paper room divider.


Method 2 Foam Room Divider.

1. Cut each 20x30 foam board into four (4) equal sized pieces with an Exacto knife. Each piece should be 10x15 inches.

2. Create slits. Make slits in each 10x15 piece of foam that are 0.5 cm wide (the approximate thickness of a foamcore board). Make one slit in the center, 5 inches deep. The remaining four slits will be 2.5 inches deep.

3. Arrange the foam pieces into an X shape. Do this by combining two pieces at the middle slit.

Take breaks. Cutting for this project takes many hours.

4. Round the sides of each piece. Use a large plate or something round to cut around. The end result will look much more modern and attractive.

5. Stack the X shapes by interlocking them to create a wall. Make sure to go layer-by-layer from the ground up, since you cannot add more pieces once you establish the overall width of the divider, without completely rearranging the wall.

If any pieces are left white, add Christmas or rope lights inside the vertical empty space. It will make it that much more impressive.

To stabilize the wall from falling you can use something heavy inside or outside the wall to keep it from tipping over.

Tips.

With the paper divider, do not wet it when cleaning. Only dust it with a duster or the brush attachment of a vacuum cleaner.

For the paper divider, match the paper and paint, or ensure that they complement each other well.

Try to find the cheapest foam boards. Perhaps at a 99 cent store.

Use foam-friendly spray paint if you paint it. (Ace Hardware has some small cans of it).

Warnings.

Be careful when cutting with the Exacto knife.

If the paper divider falls over, the paper may rip if caught on something. Should this happen, replace that area of paper using the steps outlined above in relation to adding it initially.


Paper room divider:

6 sheets of Japanese atsu unryu paper, measuring 120 x 85cm (48" x 34"), in pattern and/or color of choice.

6 strips of lightweight yet strong, good quality wood, measuring 4 x 4 x 150cm (1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 59").

6 strips of lightweight yet strong, good quality wood, measuring 4 x 4 x 75cm (1 /12" x 1 1/2" x 29 1/2").

6 hinges (brass ones are nice), as well as the appropriate screws.

12 corner covers (in color matching the paintwork you'll be using).

12 L-shaped plates.

Bradawl, Screws, Screwdriver, Hacksaw, Panel pins, Sandpaper, Hammer.

Covers for work-space (if needed), PVA or wood glue, Ruler.

Gloss paint in your choice of color (from the never-fail black or white paint colors to any color of the rainbow, make your pick depending on your décor and personal preference; be sure the paint is suitable for wood)

Paintbrush, Painting drop-cloth, Paint cleaning items, Scissors or craft trimmer.





Foam room divider.

20x30 Foamcore boards (many of them, amount dependent on how big you want the divider).

Exacto knife, Ruler.

A round plate or round object of some sort, Spray paint (if color is desired).

November 29, 2019