how to make a small space divider

How to Make a Small Space Divider.

Room dividers can be a stylish and effective way of making the best use of a room, office, hall or other area in need of division. Small, impermanent dividers can be made easily by the novice DIYer, using objects that are easily obtainable. Choose one of the suggested methods below for an easy and very cheap way to create a unique space divider for your home, made by you.

Method 1 Trellis divider.

This project is very simple and only needs about 30 minutes to complete.

1. Purchase a section of wooden trellis. It should be of a decent height (tall enough for it to make a break in vision, and if possible, higher than the average person).

2. Cut the wooden wall trellis into three equal pieces, vertically. These pieces will be joined together again in a way that allows them to be bent or folded.

3. Reattach the pieces to form the divider. Tie the first piece with the second piece, then tie the second piece with the third, using wire or rope.

4. Weave dried plant parts, one beside other, through the frame squares. Add more of this material until the plants completely cover the trellis.

The dried plant parts are best when they are of the same height (or longer) as the divider you are going to make.

Live plant vines could also be used but they're trickier and you will need to place the container growing the plant down in its final place before weaving. Moreover, moving the divider is much harder when you do this, so it's best for a more "permanent" divider, such as for an office.

Instead of dried plant parts, you can use artificial floral items, such as long leaves, etc.

5. Put the divider up where you need it. Angle the three partitions so that the divider stands in place unaided. Plant containers or similar weighted objects can be used to prevent the divider from falling over if accidentally knocked.

Things You'll Need.

A square wooden wall trellis, Saw or Jigsaw, Binding wire or rope, Wire cutter or scissors, Various dried plant parts,

Method 2 Shower curtain divider.

This easy divider has the benefit of easy pulling back when you need to space to be opened up again quickly.

1. Choose a shower curtain with a design you think is perfect for the space to be divided. If the area to be divided is longer than one curtain, choose another one or two in the same design.

If the design is stripes, spots or some other pattern, you might consider varying the colors, as long as they match nicely.

2. Hang up a line of strong wire across the area to be divided. Hang this either at ceiling height or above the area of a tall person walking through.

You may also like to attach a curtain tieback hook on a wall or area for ease of pulling the curtain back to one side if needed. This step is optional.

4. Hang the shower curtain across the wire. Pull the hung curtain across to create the divider.

Things You'll Need.

Shower curtain(s), Shower curtain hooks, Strong, thin wire, Hanging fittings, Screwdriver, hammer, Curtain tieback hook (optional).

Method 3 Vinyl records divider.

This is a rather funky room or space divider, perfect for a longer-term decorative space divider in a more modern style of home.

1. Find a bundle of old, unwanted vinyl records. The "unwanted" is an important part! Each record should be the same size, unless you're planning on deliberately using a big-small-big, etc. pattern. That's up to you.

The amount of records you'll need depends on how much space you are trying to cover. If you are hanging them from the ceiling to say, sofa level, count on about eight records of large size for the vertical drop, then as many of these rows of eight as you need to cover the space to be divided. This could be a lot of records, so visit the local thrift store if you haven't got that many stashed away.

2. Select a color of contact paper that suits your room or area. Contact paper is the best way to cover the records and make them all the same color.

Prints are also possible but bear in mind that your room decor must be matched nicely.

3. Measure a round section of contact paper over a record. This forms your template piece for records of that size. Use this to make as many circles as needed for the amount of records (one piece each side).

4. Carefully peel off the backing of the contact paper and apply to each side of the first record. Smooth out all bubbles and wrinkles so that the contact paper sits perfectly flat. Meet the edges of each side of each circle with care. Repeat for all records.

5. Use a long piece of thick wire, such as from a wire coat hanger, to make holes. Mark four holes at even quarter spaces around the edges of the record circle. Heat the wire at one end over a stovetop and use the hot end to piece holes through the marked spots.

Hold the wire with strong gloves, such as gardening gloves, in case it heats too much.

Repeat for each record.

6. Join the divider together. Use medium gauge wire to make ring joins between the holes, closing the wire with pliers. Cut the same lengths of wire for the entire project, although you may wish to make large rings for the top level rings, depending on the hook requirements from the hanging points.

Make rows first, according to the measurement needed for your space.

Then join the rows to form the entire hanging divider.

Ensure that the top row has rings too, so that it can be hung from the ceiling, beam or other area, with ease.

7. Hang the divider. Use planter hooks from the ceiling over the area in need of the divider, either with a piece of chain to add length or directly hang the divider straight from the hooks. It is important to have at least one helper to do this part, as hanging can be tricky.

8. Done. You now have an amazing, funky divider for your room or area.

Things You'll Need.

Vinyl records, in sizes preferred, as many as needed for length and width of area.

Pencil or other marker for measuring the record size onto the contact paper.

Scissors for contact paper circles, Medium gauge wire for making rings.

Tin snips or similar for cutting ring lengths, Contact paper in color of choice.

Pliers, Wire for making holes, or a coat hanger, A helper for hanging the divider.

Tips.

For the first method project, choose any size of wall trellis you think is appropriate for your project, as long as it covers what you want covered.

Warnings.

In method 1, instead of binding the pieces with wire or rope, you might consider trying to nail or screw hinges; however if the quality of the wood is poor, these will not work well, if at all.

Take care when burning holes into the vinyl records; wear gloves to protect your hands and keep your distance from the heat. Keep children and pets out of the way while working with the stove top in this project.

November 29, 2019

how to build a straw bale house

How to Build a Straw Bale House.

Building a straw bale and plaster house is a low-cost and environmentally friendly way to create a home. This guide covers the materials and methods you might use to build a straw bale house, a house that can last hundreds of years, is energy efficient and is cheap to maintain. For simplicity, this article will not include instruction on the installation of services such as natural gas, electricity or water and sewer: It covers only the details about how to build the shell.



Steps.

1. Make a plan. How big? How many rooms? What services do you want? Where are the windows and doors going to go ?

Draw up the floor plan. On your diagram, you should roughly sketch the room layouts and locate the drain lines precisely (for concrete slab) where the shower, bathtub and toilet drain connections will be (wood floors with a crawl space allows easier changes of such locations).

Image titled Build a Straw Bale House Step 1Bullet1

Each section of the exterior wall should be a multiple of the standard bale length you plan to use. This will allow you to minimize the number of bales that you cut and will also minimize waste.

2. Decide what type of base you will use to support the floor of the first story. Typical choices are a concrete pad or a timber base consisting of a double outside band with center beam(s) supported by columns and connected by floor joists on 16" centers. If you opt for the traditional wood frame, check your local building code for the dimensions of each frame element.

3. Prepare the foundation footings to be below the frost line in cold climates, and floor to be level, on an attractive slope or level ground (easier). Check your local building codes for the size and composition of exterior wall foundation. Fresh water plumbing, electrical wiring and natural gas pipes will be added above the slab, under timber floors, in walls or above ceilings.

4. Build a frame of timber or metal. The frame transfers the load of the roof down on to the foundation and should be strong enough for this purpose. You can cut in 1X4 inch bracing "straps" (set in the thickness of the 1X4) into timber outer stud-walls (posts or pillars) diagonally from the corners near the floor into the top plate -- or 2X4 inch diagonal braces nailed or bolted between vertical elements -- to prevent lateral movement within the frame, and the base of each upright timber should be anchored well to the foundation. Cables may be stretched through the bales of the structure, if desired for stability, to share stresses of possible bulging or shifting of bales.

5. Stay dry during construction by putting the roof on before going any further. Put the roof on before adding the wall bales because you don't want your bales to get soaked with rain, snow or ice.

6. Make straw bale walls, not using hay, but using straw. Straw is from harvested grain stalks (never use bales of grass). These need to remain dry, less than 20% moisture content, and tightly bound to prevent moist air (including fog) getting in before plastering. Both factors are important to prevent the rotting of the bales after construction. To build the wall, you start by sharpening some staves (inch thick willow stems) and then securing them vertically in the wood or concrete base (you will need to drill a hole, or perhaps poke them in when the concrete is still wet). Bales should then be further reinforced with "U" shaped willow stems that must be bent while the stems are green (or use another kind of straight staves, and bendable pipe for U shape ones).

Make U shaped staves: Select a one meter willow stave and mark the stave at 33 centimeter (13 in) from each end, take a big hammer and bash the green stave on these marks until the fibers of the wood are mashed, split and softened. These bashed areas are then bendable; bend the stave into U shape and then get to work. Each layer (or course) of bales are stacked up and pinning them until you have reached your desired height, during this process staves of willow should be driven down through alternate bails to fix it to the bail below. The U staves are use to attach between lined up blocks. This is especially important on the top course. When the desired height has been reached some kind of strap can be placed around the entire wall (top to bottom) to add further stability and strength, but not stressed extremely tightly.

7. Plaster the walls. There are many types of soft plaster that can be used, some based on formulations of locally available materials. Choose the best one by balancing availability, cost and effectiveness for your climate. Apply with traditional plastering tools for a smooth finish or with your hands for a rustic finish. Make sure, though to cover every last bit of exposed straw: None should be showing, unplastered. Otherwise fire is more easily started, and dampness or vermin can get in.

8. Put in the windows and doors. You should have left holes for these, bridged with lintels (horizontal headers which support the weight above each opening for a window or door). Install the window and door casings, securing them to framing posts or to plastered walls outfitted with staves.

9. Apply breathable paints. Look for mineral silicate paint that is free of artificial resins, petroleum solvents and biocides (poisons) but is weather and UV resistant. Applying breathable paints is no different than applying conventional paints, although you need to follow manufacturer guidance as products do vary somewhat. To prepare for painting, make sure that the walls are sound, clean, dry, and free of oils.

The exterior should be painted with breathable paint so that moisture can escape the walls. Paints are rated in Sd values: Paints with high Sd values have are detrimental to the underlying surface, as they do not allow it to breathe and dry out. Most non breathable paints will not disclose an Sd value as they can be much higher than 3. Paints with an Sd value less than 0.1 offer adequate breathability for most straw bale/plaster applications.



Question : Will a straw house be warm enough for New Brunswick, Canada?

Answer : A good straw bale home is significantly warmer than conventional building methods, because a well-packed bale is rated at R30 - R35 minimum, or considerably more. Today, insulated homes usually have R-20 in the walls, and many old homes have R-14 for insulation or considerably less. The earliest mobile homes had R-8 or less.

Question : Is it safe for South African (Cape Town) weather?

Answer : Use the straw as a insulator. On the outside have either wood or brick, since the rain will cause the straw to rot.



Tips.

The popularity of straw bale construction is growing in the US. Search online, typing in "Appendix M Straw-Bale Structures" for some more detailed info, from US standards.

A 23-inch-thick straw-bale wall has an R-value of about R-33. And, since virtually all straw-bale walls are plastered on both sides, these walls are relatively airtight.

There are many articles online about designing straw bale building, construction, and techniques that you will enjoy and should find useful. You can sign up for a "Free Straw Bale E-Course". Watch "Introductory Straw Bale Video" and read FAQs. Visit various straw bale photo galleries.

Merrily throwing clay onto the bale walls seems like so much fun, you may want to build a starter house to vent your feelings about the housing market prices and collapse thing.

Warnings.

Make sure you follow health and safety guidelines and regulations to avoid hurting yourself, helpers or children, etc..

Always make sure to choose a location with the materials (where clay and willow stems are available) and where such building is legal.

This knowledge is not definitive, it is just here as guidance; always get a second opinion.

Always consult a structural engineer where building permits are required, before building anything. Hay bale construction is often permitted in rural areas, but not in the usual towns and cities.

Permits: Get the relevant planning and the required building permits.

Things You'll Need.

Enough straw bales.

Foundations materials, wooden floor (option).

Lumber timbers, interior wall boards.

Nails, screws, bolts.

Willow staves (or other stakes and bendable pipe).

Roofing materials.

Lime plaster, (clay "mud" optional where desired and permitted).

Mineral silicate paint (no artificial resins, no petroleum solvents, no biocides (poisons) but is weather and UV resistant).

Tools: digging tools for foundation footings, to sharpen the staves; a saw to cut timbers to length, a bow saw for trimming bails; a mallet and hammer, plastering tools

Februari 20, 2020

how to make a bamboo wind chime

How to Make a Bamboo Wind Chime.

Wind chimes, a decorative piece that can liven up your home, can be made from a variety of materials such as ceramic pieces and metal tubing. If you are going for a natural look and mellow tone, bamboo is an excellent material to use. You can make a simple project out of creating your own bamboo wind chime by following the steps below.

Method 1 Making a Bamboo Wind Chime.

1. Find some bamboo. If you are lucky, bamboo may already be growing wild in your area, and it is simply a matter of obtaining permission and cutting the bamboo plant to a proper size. If there is no local source, you may be able to purchase a common bamboo pole, used for fishing. You can also often find bamboo poles of varying sizes at garden supply stores.

Make sure your bamboo is thoroughly seasoned and is not split or rotten.

2. Cut the bamboo into six lengths. Each length should be composed of two of the plant's "sections", with one end above the partition-like segment end, and the other below it, so you have an open tube to work with.

3. Split the hollow end of each piece. This can be done with a very sharp knife, but care must be used, since both the splinters from the bamboo and the knife can impale or cut you. If you have a vice, it might be easier (and less risky) to fix the bamboo in the vice and cut it with a saw, especially if it is quite tough. Taper the last inch (2.5cm) or so off at an angle.

4. Drill 1/8 inch (3mm) holes just above the section on the solid end of each piece, parallel to the cut you made on the opposite end. This will ensure the hollow, concave bamboo "channel" will be facing out on each tube when they are assembled.

5. Cut a round piece of plywood or other material about 7 times the diameter of the average piece of bamboo. In the photos, each piece was about 1 inch in diameter, so the plywood disk is 7 inches (~18cm).

6. Lay out the disk into 6 equal spaces around the circumference, then drill a 1/8 inch (3mm) hole about 3/4 inch (~2cm) on either side of the layout marks, near the edge of the disk.

7. Thread a piece of string through one of the holes, and tie off one end. The string should be about 48 inches (1.2m) long to begin with; any surplus can be cut off after each tube is tied in place. Heavyweight fishing line can be used for hanging the tubes, as in the photos, but a more flexible string will give better results.

8. Thread your string through the holes in the end of one bamboo section, then back through the hole in the plywood on the other side of your layout mark. Continue doing this until each bamboo is hanging under the plywood disk, then tie off the end of your line.

9. Adjust the individual sticks so that each one is staggered higher or lower than the adjacent one. This is what changes the tone of each bamboo, so you can experiment here until you obtain a pleasant sound with the tonal variation you desire.

10. Drill three holes about 1 1/2 inches (3.8cm) from the center of your plywood disk, equally spaced around it. Measure and cut three equal lengths of string, about 30 inches (0.75m) long, and tie them together on one end, allowing a small loop to be formed.

11. Thread one string through each hole in the plywood, snug them slightly, and while holding the disk level, drop some hot-melt glue on each to secure it in place.

12. Cut a smaller disk of your plywood, about 1 1/2 times the diameter of your bamboo pieces smaller than your first (top) disk. Drill three 1/8 inch (3mm) holes spaced equally about the center of this disk, about 3/4 to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) from the center. Thread the loose ends of your three center strings through these holes, allowing it to hang about 1/4 of the distance down from the top of the bamboo sticks.

13. Secure these strings to the plywood, using hot-melt glue again, keeping this smaller disk level also. This disk will be the "hammer", the striker that produces the sound of your chimes.

14. Cut a shape of plywood or other material to hang below the hammer, or lower disk, and tie it on the end of your three strings. This will catch the wind, causing the hammer to strike the bamboo tubes as the wind makes it sway back and forth. One with a larger area will move more in a lighter breeze. Feel free to experiment with different materials in different sizes and weights.

15. Secure any loose ends of strings, gluing everything with an extra bit of hot-melt glue so nothing comes untied while your chime blows in the breeze. Sand and varnish, or paint your chimes if you like.

16. Finished.

Tips

Similar steps can be used with any hollow material, such as PVC tubing or metal pipe.

Cutting different diameter tubes, or different lengths, will produce different sounds. Generally speaking, larger tubes produce deeper tones.

Warnings

Some neighbors really, really, do not like the sound of wind chimes. Be considerate where the wind chime is placed.

Sharp knives are used in this project, and can harm you. Be sure to use carefully.

Splinters from bamboo pieces may hurt or impale you as well.[4] Take caution when cutting, and use protection for your eyes and hands, such as safety goggles and gloves, if necessary.

Things You'll Need

Bamboo

1/4 inch (.6cm) thick plywood, about 2 square feet (30.5 sq cm) in length

String

Drill and saw

Hot-melt glue gun and glue

Optional - Paint or stain sealant for the plywood disk(s)

Desember 13, 2019